Authors: Dr. Nadina Truchan, Technical Manger AIN Hair Care & Cleansing
Introduction
Consumers are increasingly aware of the impact their purchases have on the environment and their health. Personal care products are no exception and the industry is shifting its focus towards more sustainable and milder ingredients. In this article, we discuss how glycolipid biosurfactants can be used to develop sustainable and mild formulations that offer attractive claims to consumers. We also highlight specific consumer benefits and illustrate these through two glycolipid biosurfactants RHEANCE® one and SOPHANCE® LA-A.
Surfactants and biosurfactants
Surfactants are an essential part of personal care products and are found in a wide range of home and personal care applications. They serve as the core ingredients for cleansing, foaming, emulsifying, solubilizing, and conditioning purposes in personal hygiene products. While conventional surfactants have functional purposes, they are characterized by a lower eco-profile with common concerns in the areas of sustainable sourcing and environmental footprint. Furthermore, some of these conventional surfactants are known to have a high potential for skin irritation.
Biosurfactants offer a more sustainable and milder alternative to conventional surfactants. Glycolipids are among the most popular type of biosurfactants because of their performance benefits, attractive natural claims, and their excellent sustainability profile.
Leading the way in biosurfactant technology
Evonik is one of the pioneers of industrial-scale manufacturing of high-quality glycolipid biosurfactants. The glycolipids are produced by microorganisms through fermentation processes, and their nature-identical structures offer biodegradability and unprecedented eco-friendliness (Figure 1).
Figure 1: Sustainable step change in cosmetic ingredient technology
The raw materials used in Evonik’s process are responsibly sourced and there are continued efforts to optimize the environmental footprint and waste management for the process.
Evonik’s high-performance glycolipid portfolio
Evonik’s versatile glycolipids provide personal care brands with a unique selling point in terms of sustainability and also offer effective foaming and cleansing properties. This makes them ideal for use in gentle personal cleansers and various other applications.
RHEANCE® One is a high-performing, multifunctional rhamnolipid with excellent foaming, cleansing, and solubilizing properties. RHEANCE® One also offers a non-bitter taste in oral care applications compared to conventional surfactants. This biosurfactant is ideal for all personal hygiene applications designed to reduce negative environmental impacts. RHEANCE® One recently received a sustainability award from the American Chemical Council for Product Safety, Innovation & Transparency.
SOPHANCE® LA-A is an acidic-rich sophorolipid that offers outstanding cleansing performance and good rinsability without compromising the foaming properties of the formulation. SOPHANCE® LA-A is the perfect choice for mildness-driven personal care applications on sensitive skin because it is gentle to the skin, mucous membranes, and eyes.
Sustainability as brand value for personal care products
Glycolipids enable brands to stand out from their competitors by using sustainable ingredients. In addition to adding value to products in terms of performance, consumers looking for eco-friendly and innovative options are also attracted to the brand (Figure 2). The integration of glycolipids into their products can help companies gain a competitive edge, minimize their carbon footprint, and support ethical and sustainable practices.
Figure 2: Sustainability features to add on branding value
Glycolipids are readily biodegradable with significantly lower aquatic toxicity compared to traditional surfactants, which means they are less harmful to aquatic life and can help reduce the environmental impact of products. This is a crucial consideration for companies that are committed to improving their footprint and achieving their sustainability targets.
Additionally, the use of glycolipids produced from sustainable feedstocks has a reduced impact on the carbon footprint of products. Conventional surfactants are frequently obtained completely or partially from non-renewable resources like petrochemicals, which contribute to greenhouse gas emissions. In contrast, glycolipids are obtained from responsibly sourced plant-based feedstocks through an optimized fermentation process that requires less energy and generates fewer emissions.
Performance benefits for consumers
In addition to their impressive sustainability profile, RHEANCE® One and SOPHANCE® LA-A also have exceptional skin and scalp compatibility, making them the perfect choice for personal care products designed for sensitive skin. These innovative ingredients have been specifically formulated to provide gentle and effective cleansing while delivering a range of benefits to the skin and hair.
Skin compatibility
According to in vitro mildness assays such as the red blood cell test, both glycolipids have been shown to be significantly gentler to the skin compared to conventional surfactants. This makes them an excellent choice for improving the mildness of final formulations and providing comprehensive care for end-consumers. (Figure 3).
Figure 3: RHEANCE® One and SOPHANCE® LA-A are both classified as non-irritants by the Red Blood Cell Test
Sebum reduction for blemished skin
RHEANCE® One glycolipid has shown promising results in reducing skin sebum for blemished skin without negative side effects. In a controlled in-vivo study with 20 participants, the effects of RHEANCE® One treatment were compared with a placebo three hours after rinse-off application. The study revealed a statistically significant decrease in skin sebum values after four weeks of using the RHEANCE® One treatment at different use levels without causing skin irritation. These findings suggest that RHEANCE® One can be an effective ingredient in cosmetic products designed to decrease skin sebum (Figure 4). The promising results of RHEANCE® One glycolipid in reducing skin sebum may also have the potential for improving scalp conditions in scalp cleansing applications.
Figure 4: RHEANCE® One is an effective treatment for blemished skin
An example formulation with glycolipids
This mild cleansing formula is composed of RHEANCE® One, which provides excellent cleansing, foaming, and solubilizing properties, and SOPHANCE® LA-A, which functions as a mildness enhancer with good cleansing properties (Figure 5). VARISOFT® EQ 90 esterquat is an excellent sustainable alternative to conventional conditioning agents such as behentrimonium chloride, and it improves the conditioning properties of skin and hair. Additionally, TEGO® Remo 95 MB offers hydrophilic emolliency that further improves sensory and moisturization. This demonstrative formulation is perfect for facial and scalp cleansers where mildness is essential.
Figure 5: RHEANCE® One is an effective treatment for blemished skin
The right partner for high-quality, sustainable glycolipids
As consumers increasingly prioritize sustainable lifestyles, the personal care industry has a real opportunity to create more appealing, natural products using glycolipid-based biosurfactants.
Evonik is committed to producing high-quality glycolipids from responsibly sourced ingredients while continuously improving its environmental footprint. We set a positive example for the industry by prioritizing feedstock transparency, raw material quality, and ethical actions such as safety and environmental responsibility.
Learn more: https://personal-care.evonik.com/en/products-solutions/biosurfactants
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