Peptides and growth factors have increasingly become cornerstones in advanced skin care. They offer potent biological signals: stimulating collagen production, enhancing skin repair, reducing inflammation, and improving visible signs of aging. But their promise comes with substantial scientific, formulation, regulatory, and cost challenges. This article explores the science of these actives, hurdles in making stable and effective products, strategies & delivery technologies, and regulatory & market considerations.
Mechanisms of Action
- Peptides are short chains of amino acids. Depending on structure, they may act as:
- Signal peptides that stimulate gene expression for ECM proteins (e.g. collagen, elastin).
- Carrier peptides, which bind trace metals (e.g. copper) involved in enzymatic activity (e.g. GHK-Cu) that promote repair & antioxidant effects.
- Neuro-modulatory peptides that mimic or disrupt neurotransmitter mechanisms (e.g. reducing muscle contraction to smooth expression lines).
- Growth Factors (GFs) are proteins (often larger, more complex than simple peptides) that bind to specific cell receptors and trigger cascades influencing cell proliferation, differentiation, migration, ECM production, and wound healing. Examples include Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) and Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF).
Key Challenges for Formulation & Delivery
| Challenge | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| Stability | Peptides and growth factors are prone to degradation: hydrolysis, oxidation, denaturation, aggregation. Temperature, pH, presence of reactive excipients, light, and oxidative species are all threats. |
| Skin Penetration & Bioavailability | Many peptides / GFs are large, hydrophilic, possibly charged—hard to cross the lipophilic stratum corneum. Without proper delivery, efficacy is minimal. |
| Compatibility with Formulation / Other Actives | Surfactants, emulsifiers, oils, preservatives, other actives may bind, denature, or otherwise inactivate the peptide or GF. |
| Shelf Life & Storage Conditions | Some growth factor products only maintain acceptable stability for ~3 months under refrigeration; ambient storage, shipping, handling can dramatically shorten useful life. |
| Cost & Manufacturing Complexity | Large peptides/GFs are more expensive to synthesize, purify, ensure consistency. Modifications to enhance stability or delivery (e.g., PEGylation, lipidation) add cost. |
Formulation & Delivery Strategies
1. Molecular & Structural Modifications
- Lipidation / Palmitoylation: Attaching fatty acid tails to peptides to improve lipophilicity and penetration (e.g. palmitoyl-pentapeptide-4).
- Cyclization / N- to C-terminal blocking: Reduces susceptibility to enzymatic breakdown.
- Conjugation with carrier moieties: PEGylation or cell-penetrating peptide domains can improve stability and uptake.
2. Encapsulation & Protective Carriers
- Liposomal systems, nanoemulsions, nanoparticles: Protect actives and facilitate transport through skin.
- Hydrogels, scaffolds: Used particularly for growth factors to control release and maintain conformation.
3. Optimizing pH, Buffer Systems, Excipients
- Maintain actives in optimal pH range to prevent aggregation/denaturation.
- Choose excipients that are inert and non-denaturing; include antioxidants and metal chelators as needed.
4. Packaging & Storage
- Use airless, opaque, low-headspace packaging to minimize oxygen and light exposure.
- Consider cold-chain logistics but avoid freeze-thaw cycles that can denature proteins.
5. Synergistic Combinations
- Combine peptides/GFs with antioxidants, barrier enhancers, or ROS scavengers to protect actives and amplify effects.
Easily search Compliance Highlights, Natural and Organic claims and Certifications with Prospector Premium, learn more here!
Case Studies
- Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF): Improves collagen production and skin elasticity but is highly temperature-sensitive, denaturing above ~40 °C and in emulsion interfaces without protective carriers.
- GHK-Cu: A small carrier peptide that binds copper, promoting wound healing, antioxidant protection, and ECM protein synthesis.
- Palmitoyl-hexapeptide-12: Demonstrated reduction in IL-6 after UV exposure, helping reduce inflammation and ECM breakdown.
Regulatory & Quality Considerations
- Verification of Active Integrity: Confirm peptide/GF remains bioactive at end of shelf life via functional assays, not just presence.
- Safety & Sensitization: Larger proteins and impurities can pose immunogenic risks; testing is essential.
- Labeling & Claim Substantiation: Anti-aging or collagen-boosting claims should be backed by in-vitro/ex-vivo or clinical evidence to avoid regulatory risk.
Best Practices for Formulators
- Profile actives’ physicochemical properties (MW, pI, stability range).
- Minimize thermal and mechanical stress during processing.
- Select appropriate carriers and delivery systems for molecular size.
- Protect from light, oxygen, and microbial contamination.
- Conduct both real-time and accelerated stability studies.
- Ensure consumer usability (storage instructions, optimal packaging size).
Emerging Trends
- Bioengineered Growth Factors with enhanced stability and targeted receptor affinity.
- Multi-Growth Factor Systems to better mimic wound-healing environments.
- Smart Delivery Platforms that release actives based on pH, enzyme activity, or oxidative stress.
- Green Peptide Synthesis to improve sustainability and reduce cost barriers.
Conclusion
Peptides and growth factors offer formulators the ability to create highly efficacious, science-driven products that target aging, repair, and barrier health. Success depends on understanding their biological activity, engineering for stability, choosing appropriate carriers, and validating performance through rigorous testing. Brands that master these factors can differentiate themselves with high-performing, consumer-trusted formulations.
References
- Pickart, L. et al. (2023). GHK-Cu Peptide in Skin Care and Regeneration. PMC. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/
articles/PMC11762834 - Zasada, M. et al. (2024). Topical Peptides in Dermatology: Mechanisms, Stability, and Delivery Challenges. MDPI Cosmetics, 12(3):107. https://www.mdpi.com/2079-
9284/12/3/107 - Eskens, U., Amin, S. (2022). Formulation of Growth Factors in Cosmetic Products: Stability and Efficacy Considerations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.
com/doi/full/10.1111/ics.12685 - Canada Peptide. (2024). Advances in Cosmetic Peptide Synthesis: From Molecular Innovation to Functional Skin Applications. https://canadapeptide.com
- LM Skin Centre. (2024). Peptides and Proteins: Challenges in Formulation and Delivery. https://lmskincentre.com
The views, opinions and technical analyses presented here are those of the author or advertiser, and are not necessarily those of ULProspector.com or UL Solutions. The appearance of this content in the UL Prospector Knowledge Center does not constitute an endorsement by UL Solutions or its affiliates.
All content is subject to copyright and may not be reproduced without prior authorization from UL Solutions or the content author.
The content has been made available for informational and educational purposes only. While the editors of this site may verify the accuracy of its content from time to time, we assume no responsibility for errors made by the author, editorial staff or any other contributor.
UL Solutions does not make any representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy, applicability, fitness or completeness of the content. UL Solutions does not warrant the performance, effectiveness or applicability of sites listed or linked to in any content.