On December 10th – 11th, 2015, I attended the SCC’s 70th Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase in New York City. Each year, the gathering features the top experts in the industry and presents the newest, most exciting research and developments. Below you’ll find a list of highlights from this year’s supplier showcase.
A novel new in vitro SPF method was developed by Ashland (Xi Qu) using a UV sensitive film (Gafchromic EBT3) that changed color when exposed to cumulative UV. The method had a coefficient of correlation with in vivo SPF of .93R2 compared with .54R2 to the standard in vitro method using a PMMA film. The method also claims to have better reproducibility.
Lox-Age (Cichorium intybus – BASF) – Lysyl oxidase (LOX) is a key protein that decreases with age and is directly linked with the differentiation of keratinocytes. Lox-Age stimulates the expression of LOX in aged keratinocytes. In a clinical study, 2% Lox-Age improved skin roughness by 62% and decreased pores by 25% after eight weeks of application.
ColaMoist 200 (Hydroxypropyl Bis-Hydroxyethyldimonium Chloride – Colonial Chemical, 70% solids) is a substantive mild cationic humectant that claims to provide sustained skin hydration.
Ninol CAA (Dimethyl Lauramide/Myristamide – Stepan Company) is a mild, naturally derived, fragrance and active solubilizer. It demonstrates excellent viscosity and foam building properties in surfactant based products and may also be an excellent Avobenzone and Benzophenone solubilizer.
Several silicones were shown to provide significantly faster hair drying when added at 2% active silicone to leave in and rinse off conditioners. The lead ingredients in rinse off conditioners were Dow Corning CE 8411 (Bis Disopropylamino-PG-Propyl Dimethicone/Bis Isobutyl PEG 14 Copolymer, Polysorbate 20, Butyloctanol-Dow Corning) and Xiameter MEM-0949 Emulsion (Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium Chloride, Trideceth-12-Dow Corning). Both provided 25-30% faster blow drying versus control.
Dow Corning FA 4003 DM Silicone Acrylate (Dimethicone, Acrylates/Polytrimethylacrylate Copolymer – Dow Corning, 40% solids) is a new polymeric solution that claims to provide a long lasting film on skin with good flexibility. Additional claims include rub resistance and SPF boosting.
Sipernat 2200PC (Hydrated Silica – Evonik) is a 320 micron particle silica that is an excellent natural based replacement for plastic beads in exfoliating products.
Aerosil R816 (Silica Cetyl Silylate – Evonik) is a surface treated silica that can produce stable emulsifier free oil in water emulsions at 1-3% using high shear processing. The technology also significantly reduces the greasy feel of emulsions.
Mariliance Marine (Water, Propanediol, Rhodosorus Marinus Extract – Soliance) is an active that reduces skin neuro hyper sensitivity. It has been shown to reduce NGF, TRVP-1, IL-1 alpha and clinically reduce skin sensitivity by 39% in 28 days versus placebo.
MiniHA (Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate – Bloomage Biotech) is a low molecular weight hydrolyzed grade of Sodium Hyaluronate (3-10K Daltons) that outperforms conventional high molecular weight grades. A .5% solution was shown to reduce wrinkle depth by 25% vs placebo after 30 days. It also significantly improves skin elasticity and hydration. Bloomage Biotech is the largest global producer of fermentation produced Sodium Hyaluronate.
RonaCare SereneShield (Cyclohexol Carboxy Butyl Ester – EMD) is a new active for blemish prone oily skin that has been shown to reduce sebum by 35% after 8 weeks of treatment and significantly reduce skin porphyrin fluorescence, which is related to reduced P. acne bacteria. Pore size is also likely to decrease since most actives that reduce sebum have this activity. It also reduces skin inflammation and redness due to Acne.
Cobiolift (Hydrolyzed Chenepodium Quinoa Seed-Cobiosa/MMP) is a polysaccharide that produces an immediate skin tightening effect when used .5%. 80% of subjects showed a 30% wrinkle depth improvement after 1 hour.
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