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Probably the most common question I am asked is ‘what are the new technologies of the future?’ I believe many will need to evolve and enable the major trends we are currently seeing in the market.   The development of more smart phone apps linked to beauty devices and diagnostics, health and wellness technology, the use of more natural sustainable ingredients, greater use of the internet for beauty care information and product purchase information, and product personalization, all of these I see having growth opportunities.

Gemonics

Genomics, the study of the human genome, will revolutionize the way active ingredients are developed in the future and the customization of skin care products to match individual genetic needs. On average, the genomes of two people may only differ by only .1%. By using artificial intelligence techniques, thousands of genetic variations can be studied that determine an individual’s skin needs. This enables the development of personalized skincare products (1). By measuring which genes get turned off or on, when an active is applied to an in vitro 3 D skin model, genomics can also be used to develop more effective ingredients. The method is often combined with In Silico computer modeling and high throughout screening methods for active discovery.  The development of Retinoid mimics showcases an example of actives that have a similar gene expression profile as Retinoic acid/Retinol, without overexpressing the genes that cause the negative skin effects such as dryness and irritation.

The integration of OTC devices with treatment products is an important trend that will significantly improve bioavailability of products in the future. Examples include:

• Yellow and red LEDs to Improve aged skin
• Lasers to remove hair
• Blue LED devices to treat Acne
• Ultrasonic low-frequency sound waves to promote exfoliation, blood flow, active skin penetration, and healing
• Micro vibration therapy to gently stimulate facial muscles to increase microcirculation, cell turnover, and skin metabolism
• Massaging and heating devices to increase active skin penetration
• Iontophoresis or the use of electric current to increase skin penetration of actives

Pickering emulsions

Pickering emulsions are surfactant free dispersions that have very unusual properties. First discovered by Ramesden in 1903, and later described by Pickering in 1907, Pickering emulsions can be used to make oil in water, water in oil, or water in oil in water emulsions. They have long been used in the food industry to produce homogenized milk (milk fat emulsified by Sodium Caseinate) and ice cream (cream emulsified using nano ice crystals); but few commercial personal care examples exist. They are stabilized using solid particles which adsorb at the oil/water interface to prevent the emulsified droplets from coalescing (2). Pickering emulsions are believed to be more stable than conventional emulsions and are not sensitive to electrolytes. Emulsion requirements include small solid particle size (typically less than 100 nm), high shear processing, particle interface contact angle < 90 degrees to form a oil in water emulsion (particle mostly wetted by the water phase) and >90 degrees (particle mostly wetted by the oil phase) to form a water in oil emulsion. Examples of commercially available Pickering particles include Octenyl Succinic Anhydride Starch, Silica Cetyl Silylate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Cyclodextrins, Sodium Caseinate, and Quaternium-18 Hectorite. The Claimed advantages of Pickering emulsions include:

• Emulsifier free
• Low irritation potential
• Reduced oily skin feel
• Improved waterproof/wash resistance
• Can make o/w, w/o, or w/o/w emulsions
• Very shear thinning rheology, high yield value, good for emulsion sprays
• Electrolyte tolerant
• Increase and stabilize foam
• Very stable to coalescence
• May help stabilize Oxygen sensitive materials (unsaturated materials)
• May help photostabilize UV sensitive materials (sunscreens, fragrances, Tocopherol)
• May prolong fragrance release on skin or hair
• May increase/or decrease active skin penetration

Biosurfactants

Biosurfactants are a technology that will become significant in the future due to their sustainability, biodegradability, low toxicity, and the demand for more natural based ingredients. They are classified as either Cyclo Lipopetides, Rhamnolipids or Sophorolipids. Biosurfactants are natural substances that reduce the surface tension of water and oil that can be produced using enzymes, by fermentation, or plant extraction using waste stream products like straw grass. Biosurfactants typically are produced by microorganisms to help them grow on different types of substrates and discourage the growth of other microbes. Due to their interesting properties, low toxicity, and biodegradability, biosurfactants have many potential personal care applications as emulsifiers, wetting agents, and antimicrobial agents. Quality, cost, and functionality may how ever need to improve for greater food, personal care, and Pharma applications. Commercially available examples include:

• Surfactin (Surfactin A Type-Kaneka) is a Cyclo Lipoprotein based biosurfactant made by fermentation from Bacillus subtilis that has one of the lowest critical micelle concentrations of any known surfactant. It is stable in acidic to weak alkaline conditions and can form high internal phase oil in water or D phase emulsions.
• Rheance Glycolipids (Glycolipids-Evonik, Sophorolipid)-foaming agent/stabilize foam, remove makeup, solubilizing agent
• Sopholiance S (Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment (and) Water-Givaudan Active Beauty)-reduce sebum, improve Acne
• Sophogreen (Water, Glucose, Rapeseed Acid-Givaudan Active Beauty, Sophorolipid)-solubilizing agent

Nanocellulose is a 100% natural ingredient with broad personal care applications. Nanocellulose refers to a wide range of cellulosic ingredients processed as different types of nano-structures. These include;

• Cellulose Nanocrystal (CNC )-crystalline
• Cellulose Nanofibers (CNF)-crystalline
• Microfibrillated Cellulose (MFC)-crystalline/amorphous
• Microcrystalline Cellulose (MCC)-crystalline
• Bacterial Nanocellulose (BNC)-crystalline

Personal care applications/properties include:

• Salt/PH tolerant, shear thinning, natural based thickening agent (CNC, MFC, MCC)
• Globally approved
• No toxicity
• Environmentally friendly
• Emulsion stabilizer, thick sprayable oil in water emulsions (MFC, MCC, CNC, CNF, BNC)
• Surfactant free Pickering oil in water emulsions (MCC, CNC, CNF, BNC, MFC)
• Soft focus, skin mattifying agent (MFC, CNC)
• Skin feel modifying agent
• Strengthen/reinforce polymeric films on skin/hair (MFC, CNC)
• Create iridescent films (CNC)
• Active/color delivery technology (CNC)
• Improved skin moisturization

Water

Water is the most important ingredient used in personal care and one of the least researched or discussed. The global bottled water market grew between 2014 and 2017 to over $200bn, at a 9% yearly growth, contributing to 40% of entire global personal care market. Yet, there have been no talks or posters given about water at any SCC or IFSCC meetings that I have ever attended.  Numerous research reports have shown that water can have significant biochemical properties depending on its source or how it is processed. Topical thermal spring water for example has been shown to act as a prebiotic to increase the diversity of the skin microbiome, soothe skin, and improve eczema/psoriasis (3). Other types of processed water include:

• Low Deuterium “light” water (reduced Deutrium Oxide <130 ppm in water)-Deuterium is a Hydrogen atom with an added Neutron. It occurs at approximately 150 ppm in normal water sources. The bond between Deuterium and Oxygen is stronger than with Hydrogen which can cause significant changes in biological reactions. Research has shown that Deuterium slows DNA replication, causes errors in transcription, and  hinders DNA repair. Reduced levels of Deuterium Oxide in water have been shown to increase rodent life expectancy, increase plant growth, and reduce cancer rates. A cream formulated using 111ppm of Deutrium Oxide was also shown to have better antiaging skin effects compared to a placebo cream (4)
• Alkaline water (electrolyzed, cathode collected)-may have better moisturizing properties (5)
• Acidic water (electrolyzed, anode collected)- acidic water with an oxidative reduction potential (ORP in millivolts) of >+600 may have antimicrobial properties
• Irradiated with various types of electromagnetic radiation (magnetic, infrared, 528 HZ)
• Vortexed water (spiraling, falling water)
• EZ water

References

1. https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2018/10/03/The-future-of-beauty-is-personalised-Genomics-and-AI-in-bespoke-beauty
2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pickering_emulsion
3. S Seite, Thermal waters as cosmeceuticals: La Roche-Posay thermal spring water example, Clin Cosmet Invest Dermatol 2013, 6, 23–28.
4. US 5788953, Gabor Somlyai, 8/4/98
5. US 6231874 Estee Lauder, 5/15/01

 

 

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