{"id":10143,"date":"2020-01-10T08:05:35","date_gmt":"2020-01-10T14:05:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=10143"},"modified":"2020-01-24T13:11:00","modified_gmt":"2020-01-24T19:11:00","slug":"pcc-skin-care-trend-free-radicals-and-quench-technology","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/10143\/pcc-skin-care-trend-free-radicals-and-quench-technology\/","title":{"rendered":"Skin Care Trend: Free Radicals and Quench Technology"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"elderlyIt is commonly accepted that environmental exposure causes approximately 50% of extrinsic premature skin aging. Known as the free radical theory of aging, environmental exposure creates free radicals which are believed to be a major contributor of accelerated skin aging. Consumer awareness of free radicals is growing rapidly with 14% of global consumers believing them to be a major cause of their skin and hair problems.<\/p>\n

We now know that all parts of the solar spectrum can cause free radical formation. Solar radiation is believed to contribute up to 80% of extrinsic skin aging, with visible light contributing around 52% of free radicals, UVA\/B 6%, and infrared radiation (IR) A\/B\/C 42% (1).<\/p>\n

Over a lifetime, free radicals can cause accumulated damage, leading to a decline in skin structure and function (2). Daily environmental exposure creates free radicals resulting in chronic low level skin inflammation\/irritation. This is probably due to the activation of Nuclear Factor Kappa B (NF-KB) which can cause the release of inflammatory cytokines such as Interleukin 6 and 1 Alpha. Over time, this can lead to skin wrinkling, sagging, increased DNA damage, and a reduced ability to repair DNA damage (3).<\/p>\n

What are free radicals?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Free radicals, referred to as Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), are molecules derived from molecular Oxygen. Oxygen has two unpaired electrons in separate orbitals in its outer electron shell. This structure makes Oxygen susceptible to forming Singlet Oxygen radicals, Superoxide radicals, Hydroperoxide radicals, Peroxy Nitrite, Alkoxyl radicals, Hydroxyl radicals, and Nitrogen Monoxide.<\/p>\n

Singlet oxygen is probably the most reactive, destructive form created when a photo excited molecule absorbs and transfers energy to Oxygen. It is the most reactive type of ROS and is responsible for much of the skin damage caused by environmental aging.<\/p>\n

Human skin contains numerous endogenous molecules that can create singlet Oxygen when they absorb radiation and go into an excited state. Solar radiation can cause electrons to jump to a higher energy orbital called the singlet state.<\/p>\n

Once excited, the molecule may quickly return to the ground state by emitting a photon or it can decay to a less energetic excited state called a triplet state before finally getting rid of its energy as heat and returning to the ground state. While in the singlet or triple states, molecules are very reactive and can transform to a less reactive form or react with molecules in skin. Free radical quenchers rapidly deactivate photo excited molecules to the ground state. Typical antioxidants can\u2019t do this.<\/p>\n

Ground state Oxygen can directly absorb 765 nanometers (nm) visible light leading to the formation of singlet Oxygen without the involvement of a photosensitizer or excited molecule. Infrared B can also cause the direct conversion of ground state Oxygen to singlet Oxygen (4).<\/p>\n

Most antioxidants, except for Carotenoids, have very weak activity against singlet Oxygen. That is why the highest concentrations of Carotenoids in the body occur in skin where they are the primary antioxidants that protect against environmentally induced free radicals (5).<\/p>\n

Current sunscreens offer only partial protection against free radicals formed by UV and little against those formed by Ozone, visible light, blue light, and Infrared. Even photo stabilized sunscreens can still generate free radicals.<\/p>\n

How do antioxidants in skincare work?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Many antioxidants added to formulations are weak at preventing ROS formation and most work by neutralizing free radicals once formed where they are consumed during the process. Antioxidants function by slowing or preventing the oxidation of other molecules by donating an electron to prevent free radical formation or neutralize existing ones. They can slow down and can even prevent some of the oxidative damage that causes skin aging. Since antioxidants block the process of oxidation by neutralizing free radicals, the antioxidants themselves become consumed. That is why there is a constant need to replenish the antioxidant supply.<\/p>\n

Antioxidants work by several different mechanisms:<\/p>\n