{"id":10255,"date":"2020-02-07T08:05:45","date_gmt":"2020-02-07T14:05:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=10255"},"modified":"2020-02-21T09:02:00","modified_gmt":"2020-02-21T15:02:00","slug":"pcc-structured-surfactant-technology","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/10255\/pcc-structured-surfactant-technology\/","title":{"rendered":"Structured Surfactant Technology"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-10258\" src=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2020\/02\/products-on-a-grocery-store-shelf-iStock-534029622-600x400-1.jpg\" alt=\"shampoo products on a shelf - learn about structured surfactant technology\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/products-on-a-grocery-store-shelf-iStock-534029622-600x400-1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/products-on-a-grocery-store-shelf-iStock-534029622-600x400-1-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/>Structured surfactants, or lamellar liquid crystal-based systems, are becoming very popular to formulate shampoos and body washes that have unique properties and consumer benefits.<\/p>\n<p>Structured surfactants are formed by combining specific types of anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants in the right ratios in order to provide the correct geometry or critical packing parameter. This enables the formation of liquid crystal lamellar phases containing a close-packed network of spheres or multilamellar vesicles. These so-called spherulites have onion-like bilayer structures with water bound between the layers.<\/p>\n<p>This structure is very different from the micelles that exist in conventional cleansers (1). Lamellar or bilayer packing is favored by using surfactants that have branched alkyl chains or by blending anionic surfactants that have large head groups\/small tails with nonionics, or amphoterics that have small head groups\/large tails (2). By modifying the salt content, pH, and using high shear mixing, the sheets can be forced into spheres.<\/p>\n<p>Many types of surfactants form liquid crystalline phases at high concentrations however only by carefully combining the right surfactants at the proper amounts can this phase occur at more dilute concentrations.<\/p>\n<h3>Characterizing structured surfactant formulations<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Ability to easily emulsify oils with low shear mixing; the typical particle size of the emulsion is 1-5 microns.<\/li>\n<li>Have excellent phase stability at 45-50\u00b0.<\/li>\n<li>Rheology: high zero shear viscosity\/yield point and shear thinning behavior.<\/li>\n<li>Polarized light microscopy: lamellar phases are birefringent and give characteristic patterns when viewed using polarized light.<\/li>\n<li>Single Angle X-Ray Scattering (SAXS): lamellar phases can be determined by characteristic d-line spacing 1:2:3:4 and a broad peak at 4.5A.<\/li>\n<li>Electron microscopy can visualize the multilamellar vesicle structures.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Typically used surfactants (with or without electrolyte)<\/h3>\n<p><strong>Anionic<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Sodium Trideceth Sulfate<\/li>\n<li>Sodium Laureth Sulfate<\/li>\n<li>Sodium Lauryl Sulfate<\/li>\n<li>Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate<\/li>\n<li>Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate<\/li>\n<li>Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate<\/li>\n<li>Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate<\/li>\n<li>Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate<\/li>\n<li>Laureth 1 Phosphate<\/li>\n<li>Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate<\/li>\n<li>Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate\/Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Amphoteric<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Sodium Lauroamphoacetate<\/li>\n<li>Cocamidopropyl Betaine<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Liquid crystal modifiers<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Trideceth-3<\/li>\n<li>Laureth 4<\/li>\n<li>Cocamide MEA<\/li>\n<li>Cocamide MIPA<\/li>\n<li>Glyceryl Caprylate\/Caprate<\/li>\n<li>Isostearic acid<\/li>\n<li>Lauryl alcohol<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Stability enhancers for improving cold temperature stability (loss of viscosity)<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Thickeners like Xanthan gum, cellulosics, and Guar Hydroxypropyl<\/li>\n<li>Trimonium Chloride<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Commercially available structured surfactant blends<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Miracare SLB-365 (Water, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Cocamide MEA-Solvay Novacare, 40-45% solids)<\/li>\n<li>Iselux SLC (Water, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Cocamide MIPA, Sodium Benzoate-Innospec, 44% Solids)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Structured surfactants have shear-thinning rheology with a high yield value, enabling the formulation of pourable liquids that can suspend insoluble oils, silicones, ZPT, and exfoliating beads\/powders.<\/p>\n<p>Yield value is the amount of force it takes to cause a product to flow \u2014 the higher the yield value, the greater the suspending power of the formulation. High yield value formulations can also create appealing visual effects like having different colored stripes or swirls in the product.<\/p>\n<p>Structured surfactants can incorporate high levels of oil without sacrificing the quality and quantity of the foam or lather. The foam is rich and dense and can deliver a noticeable moisturizing feel.<\/p>\n<p>For example, I have formulated foaming face washes that contain up to 80% oils that are heat stable, foam well, and have good rinse off properties. The particle size of the emulsion is remarkably small due to the extremely low surface tension of the lamellar liquid crystalline surfactant phase, even when the oil is added with low shear mixing.<\/p>\n<p>When formulating with emollients, it is important to choose oils that contain over 30 carbons in order to avoid micelle formation. The formation of micelles will reduce foaming and result in lower deposition. Most vegetable oils would satisfy this criterion.<\/p>\n<p>Additional benefits of using structured surfactant blends include improved mildness with less irritation versus conventional formulations, better hair shine and longer dyed hair color retention due to better emollient deposition. Typically a higher fragrance intensity\/duration on skin and hair is seen versus conventional micellar based formulations.<\/p>\n<h3>Examples of marketed products based on structured surfactants<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Olay 2-in-1 Essential Oils Ribbons Body Wash, Jojoba Extract &amp; Luscious Orchid<\/li>\n<li>Dove Body Wash Sensitive Skin<\/li>\n<li>Equate Deep Moisture Body Wash<\/li>\n<li>Skin So Soft Summer Soft Creamy Body Wash<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Further reading<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/4712\/pcc-lamellar-gel-network-technology-a-primer\/?st=31\">Lamellar Gel Network Technology: A Primer<\/a><\/p>\n<h3>References<\/h3>\n<ol>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.gcimagazine.com\/business\/rd\/ingredients\/111393889.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">https:\/\/www.gcimagazine.com\/business\/rd\/ingredients\/111393889.html<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/doi\/full\/10.1111\/ics.12439\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">https:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/doi\/full\/10.1111\/ics.12439<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com\/formulating\/category\/haircare\/premium-Structured-Surfactant-Systems-for-High-Performance-Shampoos-209693241.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">https:\/\/www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com\/formulating\/category\/haircare\/premium-Structured-Surfactant-Systems-for-High-Performance-Shampoos-209693241.html<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h3>Key structured surfactant patents<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Unilever: US 6150312, US 7579781, US 20030171231, US 20050137101, US 8778910<\/li>\n<li>Solvay\/Novacare: EP1203063, US 9187716, US 7488707, US 20060040337, US 20150044157<\/li>\n<li>Colgate: US7737104<\/li>\n<li>Dahms: US 20070081953<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Structured surfactants, or lamellar liquid crystal-based systems, are becoming very popular to formulate shampoos and body washes that have unique properties and consumer benefits. Structured surfactants are formed by combining specific types of anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants in the &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/10255\/pcc-structured-surfactant-technology\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":10258,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-10255","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Structured Surfactant Technology - Prospector Knowledge Center<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Structured surfactants are becoming very popular to formulate shampoos and body washes. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...\",\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/author\\\/george-deckner\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Structured Surfactant Technology - Prospector Knowledge Center","description":"Structured surfactants are becoming very popular to formulate shampoos and body washes. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...","sameAs":["https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com"],"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/author\/george-deckner\/"}]}},"authors":[{"term_id":1251,"user_id":6,"is_guest":0,"slug":"george-deckner","display_name":"George Deckner","avatar_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpg","0":null,"1":"","2":"","3":"","4":"","5":"","6":"","7":"","8":""}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10255","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10255"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10255\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/10258"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10255"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10255"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10255"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=10255"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}