{"id":11011,"date":"2020-10-09T06:05:14","date_gmt":"2020-10-09T12:05:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=11011"},"modified":"2020-10-16T08:48:59","modified_gmt":"2020-10-16T14:48:59","slug":"pcc-cosmetic-applications-of-genomics","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/11011\/pcc-cosmetic-applications-of-genomics\/","title":{"rendered":"Cosmetic Applications of Genomics"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"photoI believe genomics will revolutionize the way we develop new personal care actives and products in the future and help us gain fundamental insights into how skin functions and ages.<\/p>\n

All applications of genomics had as its origins the human genome project whose main goals were to provide a complete and accurate sequence of the 3 billion DNA base pairs that make up the human genome and to identify the estimated 30,000 genes that make up human DNA. The project was formally launched in 1990 and was declared complete on April 14, 2003. It was the world’s largest collaborative biological project (1).<\/p>\n

What makes us unique as humans are epigenome differences since 99.9% of our DNA is the same (2). Much of skin aging is now believed to be due to epigenetic changes caused by the wrong genes being turned on and good ones being turned off. All of us have a unique epigenome, even fraternal twins whose DNA is identical. Studies involving twins have shown that up to 60% of the skin aging between individuals can be attributed to genetic factors, with the remaining 40% due to non-genetic factors (6). Throughout our lifetime, our epigenome is constantly changing and everything we experience can have a negative or positive impact. This is significant since we know that epigenetic changes can be prevented or even reversed by good lifestyle choices such as exercising, proper diet, stress reduction, smoking cessation, having a positive attitude, and social interaction. Other approaches such as meditation, drugs, supplements, and topical treatments also are promising approaches to help people age gracefully while improving their quality of life. A Harvard epigenetic research study sponsored by Procter and Gamble demonstrated that skin treatment needs change with age. The study discovered that a woman\u2019s skin ages differently during her lifetime: a decline in antioxidant response and chronic inflammation in her 20s, a decline in skin bioenergy in her 30s, an increase in cellular senescence in her 40s, a decline in skin barrier function in her 50s, and an acceleration of all the above in her 60s. Researchers also identified a unique genetic fingerprint among exceptional skin agers comprised of around 2,000 genes. These genes influence cellular energy production, cell junction and adhesion processes, skin and moisture barrier formation, DNA repair and replication, and antioxidant production. The study discovered how strongly these genes are expressed in the skin is different in exceptional skin agers and that the genes can be influenced by environmental factors, lifestyle choices and even skincare habits (3). There are numerous companies that can now test for many of these age-related epigenetic changes using saliva based tests. These include 23andMe, Skintelli (EpigenCare), and SkinDNA (Advanced Dermatology). A personalized list of skincare products is typically recommended based on the test results.<\/p>\n

Measuring gene expression (which genes are turned off and on) using high throughput DNA microarrays and 3D skin cell cultures to evaluate active ingredients or complete skincare formulations are now being commonly used by both ingredient suppliers and personal care companies (4). This will dramatically improve the efficacy of skincare products in the future and lead to a greater understanding of biological skin mechanisms. For example we now know that there are at least 72 key proteins involved with skin aging of which 39 are involved in collagen\/elastin metabolism and matrix metalloprotease production. Additionally, there are six proteins involved with hydration and 27 proteins related to the antioxidant capacity of the skin (6).<\/p>\n

Genomics can be used to identify subjects likely to respond well to products or certain actives. Subjects in most clinicals can be broken down into 3 groups which fall into a typical bell curve distribution. By decreasing the number of low responders and identifying high responders clinical efficacy can be dramatically improved (typically-low 20-30%, average 40-60%, high 20-30%). Commercial skin repair actives for example can vary in efficacy from an average wrinkle depth reduction of 13% to a high of 63% on high responders.<\/p>\n

Definitions (1,4)<\/strong><\/h3>\n