{"id":11721,"date":"2021-05-21T06:05:53","date_gmt":"2021-05-21T12:05:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=11721"},"modified":"2022-05-31T14:21:17","modified_gmt":"2022-05-31T20:21:17","slug":"pcc-tips-and-tricks-guaranteed-to-improve-your-formulations-part-two","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/11721\/pcc-tips-and-tricks-guaranteed-to-improve-your-formulations-part-two\/","title":{"rendered":"Tips and Tricks Guaranteed to Improve Your Formulations (Part Two)"},"content":{"rendered":"<h3><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-11723\" src=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2021\/04\/GettyImages-1171526902-cosmetics-HEADER-600x400-1.jpg\" alt=\"bottles and test tubes with formulas - Tips and Tricks for formulations\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/GettyImages-1171526902-cosmetics-HEADER-600x400-1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/GettyImages-1171526902-cosmetics-HEADER-600x400-1-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/>Actives<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>The use of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Phospholipids&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">phospholipids<\/a> can significantly increase skin penetration of both oil and water-soluble actives. Examples include <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=lysolecithin&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">lysolecithin<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=hydrogenated%20lecithin&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">hydrogenated lecithin<\/a> or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=lysolecithin&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">phosphatidyl choline<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Glyceryl%20Caprylate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Glyceryl caprylate<\/a> (90% mono) may be useful as a mild, well-tolerated skin penetration enhancer.<\/li>\n<li>Hydration can significantly improve the skin penetration of actives. The use of synergistic humectant blends combined with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=lamellar%20liquid%20crystal&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">lamellar liquid crystal<\/a> based emulsion systems can provide superior, sustained hydration.<\/li>\n<li>The optical form of an active can have different biological activity. When using <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Panthenol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">panthenol<\/a> in formulations you should use the D not DL or racemic form which is only has 50% of the activity of D panthenol. The (-) alpha form of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Bisabolol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">bisabolol<\/a> is also significantly more effective than the synthetic racemic form.<\/li>\n<li>Neutralizing <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Lactic%20Acid&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">lactic<\/a> or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Glycolic%20Acid&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">glycolic acid<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Arginine&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">arginine<\/a> can reduce skin irritation without reducing its skin exfoliating activity.<\/li>\n<li>The best nonirritating active to increase cell turnover is <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=n%20acetyl%20glucosamine&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">n acetyl glucosamine<\/a>. Increasing cell turnover also helps increase skin lightening and wrinkle reduction efficacy of actives.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Niacinamide&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Niacinamide<\/a> is the most useful and credentialed active ingredient currently available. Niacinamide works synergistically to boost the efficacy of most skin care actives. Examples include combined with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=n%20acetyl%20glucosamine&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">n acetyl glucosamine<\/a> or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=hexyl%20resorcinol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">hexyl resorcinol<\/a> for skin lightening or combined with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane<\/a> for wrinkle reduction.<\/li>\n<li>When using <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Niacinamide&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">niacinamide<\/a> in formulations, use a grade that has less than 100 ppm of nicotinic acid as an impurity. Nicotinic acid is a strong skin irritant.<\/li>\n<li>Use combinations of actives that work by different or complementary mechanisms to get better skin repair efficacy.<\/li>\n<li>Niacinamide and polar emollients like <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=PPG-15%20Stearyl%20Ether&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">PPG 15 stearyl ether<\/a> can be useful to reduce retinol-induced skin irritation.<\/li>\n<li>.5% <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Bakuchiol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">bakuchiol<\/a>, a retinoid mimic, was shown in a peer reviewed article to provide similar skin benefits as .5% <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Retinol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">retinol<\/a> without skin irritation.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Salicylic%20Acid&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Salicylic<\/a> should be formulated at a PH of 3 for maximum effectiveness.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Preservation<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"font-size: 1.4rem;\">Use .5-1% <\/span><a style=\"background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 1.4rem;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Pentylene%20Glycol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">pentylene glycol<\/a><span style=\"font-size: 1.4rem;\">, <\/span><a style=\"background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 1.4rem;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=1%2C2-Hexanediol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">hexanediol<\/a><span style=\"font-size: 1.4rem;\">, <\/span><a style=\"background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 1.4rem;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=ethylhexyl%20glycerin&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ethylhexyl glycerin<\/a><span style=\"font-size: 1.4rem;\">, or <\/span><a style=\"background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 1.4rem;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Caprylyl%20Glycol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">caprylyl glycol<\/a><span style=\"font-size: 1.4rem;\"> to reduce formulation preservative levels.<\/span><\/li>\n<li>All preservatives and potentiators (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Product\/search?k=Chelating%20Agents%20%2F%20Sequestrants&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">chelators<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Pentylene%20Glycol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">pentylene glycol<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=1%2C2-Hexanediol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">hexanediol<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=ethylhexyl%20glycerin&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ethylhexyl glycerin<\/a>, or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Caprylyl%20Glycol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">caprylyl glycol<\/a>) should be added to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=lamellar%20gel&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">lamellar gel<\/a> network-based formulations below 45C to insure that they remain mostly in the free bulk water phase of the emulsion for maximum preservation activity.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Glyceryl%20Caprylate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Glyceryl caprylate<\/a> (90% mono) is a preservative that has less negative impact on the viscosity of oil-in-water based lamellar based emulsions than <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Caprylyl%20Glycol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">caprylyl glycol<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Benzyl%20Alcohol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">benzyl alcohol<\/a>, or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Phenoxyethanol&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">phenoxyethanol<\/a>. It also may have less neurosensory types of skin reactions.<\/li>\n<li>The use of biodegradable chelants like <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Sodium%20Phytate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sodium phytate<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Tetrasodium%20Glutamate%20Diacetate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tetra sodium glutamate diacetate<\/a> can reduce preservative level by up to 50%. Typical active use levels are .05-.1%.<\/li>\n<li>The least irritating or sensitizing preservative currently available is probably <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Colloidal%20Silver&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">colloidal silver<\/a> or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=silver%20citrate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">silver citrate<\/a>. The use of chelants should be avoided when using any silver-based preservative.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Hair Conditioners<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=Behenyl&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Behenyl<\/a>-based surfactants are the best currently available hair conditioning actives for cream rinse formulations. Examples include <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=behenyl%20trimethyl%20ammonium%20chloride&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Behenamidopropyl%20Dimethylamine&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">behenamidopropyl dimethyl amine<\/a> acid neutralized.<\/li>\n<li>Using a rinse-off hair conditioner prior to shampooing provides better hair conditioning and volume.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Shampoos\/Body Washes<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Use cationic polymers to reduce skin irritation and improve the foam and lather quality of the formulation. Examples include <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=guar%20hydroxypropyltrimonium%20chloride&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=starch%20hydroxypropyltrimonium%20chloride&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride<\/a>. Typical use levels are .2-.5% on an active basis.<\/li>\n<li>Typical base formulations normally contain ~15% active surfactant comprised of a primary anionic surfactant (7.5-10% active) and amphoteric secondary surfactant (5-7.5% active). Recommended primary surfactants include <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Sodium%20Laureth%20Sulfate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sodium laureth 1 or 2 sulfate<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Sodium%20Lauroyl%20Methyl%20Isethionate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate<\/a>, or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Sodium%20Cocoyl%20Glycinate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sodium cocoyl glycinate<\/a>. Amphoteric surfactants play a critical role in thickening the formulation, improving lather, and mildness. Recommended amphoterics include <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Cocamidopropyl%20Betaine&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">cocamidopropyl betaine<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Coco-Betaine&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">coco betaine<\/a>, and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Lauryl%20Hydroxysultaine&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">lauryl hydroxysultaine.<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Humectants that may be useful for improving body wash skin moisturization from include <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=hydroxypropyl%20bis-hydroxyethyldimonium%20chloride&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">hydroxypropyl bis-hydroxyethyldimonium chloride<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Sodium%20Polyaspartate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sodium polyaspartate<\/a>, and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Betaine&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">betaine<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Lipsticks<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>The most common waxes used to make lipsticks are <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Ozokerite&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ozokerite<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Copernicia%20Cerifera%20(Carnauba)%20Wax&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">carnauba<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?casName=Candelilla%20wax&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">candelilla<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Beeswax&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">beeswax<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=microcrystalline&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">microcrystalline<\/a>, and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Polyethylene&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">polyethylene<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=Fumed%20silica&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Fumed silica<\/a> can significantly improve lipstick payoff, color uniformity, stability, and wear time. It can also help prevents lipstick color migration or \u2018feathering\u2019 into the fine lines of the lips.<\/li>\n<li>Using low molecular weight emollients in lipsticks can cause feathering due to their tendency to rapidly spread on skin.<\/li>\n<li>Adding small amounts of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=polyethylene%20wax&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">polyethylene wax<\/a> to lipsticks can be useful to increase the hardness and melting point of sticks without impacting payoff.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Sunscreen formulations<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Formulations containing <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=avobenzone&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">avobenzone<\/a> should always contain a biodegradable chelator like <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Sodium%20Phytate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sodium phytate<\/a> or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Tetrasodium%20Glutamate%20Diacetate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tetra sodium glutamate diacetate<\/a> to reduce discoloration. Avobenzone forms highly colored complexes with many trace metals. Typical active use levels are .05-.1%.<\/li>\n<li>Emollients like <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Butyloctyl%20Salicylate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">butyloctyl salicylate<\/a> and tridecyl salicylate can significantly increase SPF.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Ethylhexyl%20Methoxycrylene&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene<\/a> increases SPF more effectively than using <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Octocrylene&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">octocrylene<\/a>. It also dissolves avobenzone better.<\/li>\n<li>Powdered <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Zinc+Oxide\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">zinc oxide<\/a> incorporated into the oil phase of formulations should use <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=polyhydroxystearic%20acid&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">polyhydroxystearic acid<\/a> or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Polyglyceryl-6%20Polyricinoleate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">polyglyceryl 6 polyricinoleate<\/a> as dispersing agents. The recommended level is 5-10% based on the % zinc oxide used.<\/li>\n<li>Zinc oxide\/<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Titanium%20Dioxide&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">titanium<\/a>-based formulations should have in vitro SPF testing performed on stability samples<\/li>\n<li>Always age zinc oxide\/titanium-based formulations several weeks before submitting for in vivo SPF testing. SPFs can be lower by up to 20% after several weeks of aging.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Miscellaneous<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>My recommended stability protocol for testing emulsions\n<ul>\n<li>1 month at 50C<\/li>\n<li>3 months at room Temperature, 5C, and 45C<\/li>\n<li>Freeze thaw cycle (-15C to RT)<\/li>\n<li>Centrifugation (3000 rpm for 20 min)<\/li>\n<li>Vibrating table (400 rpm for 4 hours)<\/li>\n<li>The best predictive way to judge if an emulsion is heat stable is to measure the viscosity hot at whatever your upper stability temperature is<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Silicone resins (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=polymethylsilsesquioxane&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">polymethylsilsesquioxane<\/a>) are good at reducing the tacky feel of formulations and providing a soft-focus wrinkle blurring effect on skin. Silicone resins also can have skin exfoliating effects when rubbed on skin due to their abrasively.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Dimethicone&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dimethicone<\/a> can reduce the soaping of oil-in-water emulsions when rubbed on skin. Typical use levels are 1% of a 5 or 10 cts. dimethicone.<\/li>\n<li>Always use dispersing agents when incorporating large amounts of powders\/pigments into either the water or oil phase of formulations. Examples include <a style=\"background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 1.4rem;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=polyhydroxystearic%20acid&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">polyhydroxystearic acid<\/a><span style=\"font-size: 1.4rem;\"> or <\/span><a style=\"background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 1.4rem;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Polyglyceryl-6%20Polyricinoleate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">polyglyceryl 6 polyricinoleate<\/a><span style=\"font-size: 1.4rem;\"> for oil dispersions and <\/span><a style=\"background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 1.4rem;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Sodium%20Polyacrylate&amp;st=31&amp;utm_source=KnowledgeCenter&amp;utm_medium=article&amp;utm_campaign=2021pcc&amp;utm_term=tips_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sodium polyacrylate<\/a><span style=\"font-size: 1.4rem;\"> for water dispersions.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>For more information, please refer to <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/11641\/pcc-tips-and-tricks-guaranteed-to-improve-the-your-formulations-part-one\/\">Part One<\/a><\/h3>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Actives The use of phospholipids can significantly increase skin penetration of both oil and water-soluble actives. Examples include lysolecithin and hydrogenated lecithin or phosphatidyl choline. Glyceryl caprylate (90% mono) may be useful as a mild, well-tolerated skin penetration enhancer. Hydration &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/11721\/pcc-tips-and-tricks-guaranteed-to-improve-your-formulations-part-two\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-11721","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","7":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Tips and Tricks Guaranteed to Improve Your Formulations (Part Two)<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Need more tips and tricks that are guaranteed to improve your personal care formulations? 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...\",\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/author\\\/george-deckner\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Tips and Tricks Guaranteed to Improve Your Formulations (Part Two)","description":"Need more tips and tricks that are guaranteed to improve your personal care formulations? 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...","sameAs":["https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com"],"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/author\/george-deckner\/"}]}},"authors":[{"term_id":1251,"user_id":6,"is_guest":0,"slug":"george-deckner","display_name":"George Deckner","avatar_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpg","0":null,"1":"","2":"","3":"","4":"","5":"","6":"","7":"","8":""}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11721","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11721"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11721\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11721"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11721"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11721"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=11721"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}