{"id":13277,"date":"2022-06-15T06:05:58","date_gmt":"2022-06-15T12:05:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=13277"},"modified":"2022-10-31T13:27:16","modified_gmt":"2022-10-31T19:27:16","slug":"pcc-retinoid-mimics-derivatives-and-efficacy-boosters","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/13277\/pcc-retinoid-mimics-derivatives-and-efficacy-boosters\/","title":{"rendered":"Retinoid Mimics, Derivatives, and Efficacy Boosters"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"Retinoid mimics and derivatives are currently hot ingredients that claim equal or better skin benefits than Retinol without having undesirable skin effects. Retinol is the best current OTC skin repair ingredient and the gold standard for treating the signs of aged skin based on published peer-reviewed studies (9,10, 11,12). Retinol<\/a> is a precursor of Retinoic acid, which is an Rx ingredient approved to treat Acne and photodamaged skin. Once Retinol penetrates skin, it can oxidize to form Retinal then Retinoic acid. Most marketed products contain <0.1% Retinol<\/a> due to excessive skin irritation and dryness. This irritation process is referred to as Retinization and typically will resolve after four weeks of use (25). Retinol can easily oxidize in formulations and lose efficacy. Retinol may also not be suitable for use by pregnant women since it is low-level teratogen.<\/p>\n

Retinoid mimics, also referred to as Bio-Retinols, are ingredients that provide similar antiaging skin benefits to Retinol<\/a>, Retinyl esters, and Retinoic acid<\/a> without having the negative skin effects such as burning, stinging, redness, or dryness. They also typically have a better stability profile in formulations. Retinoid mimics are characterized by having a similar gene expression profile in upregulating genes associated with Retinol efficacy and upregulating many of the genes associated with an improved skin barrier. Some can also down regulate the expression of inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1A, IL-6, IL-8, COX-2, and MMP-1 known to contribute to Retinoid skin irritation. Retinoid mimics typically increase Retinol related efficacy genes such as CRAPP I\/II (cellular binding proteins), RAR (retinoic acid receptors), RXR (retinoid X receptors), FGF (fibroblast growth factor), TGF (transforming growth factor beta) and can stimulate Collagen\/Elastin\/Hyaluronic acid formation.<\/p>\n

Retinoid mimics\/derivatives<\/h2>\n