{"id":13816,"date":"2022-11-02T06:05:04","date_gmt":"2022-11-02T12:05:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=13816"},"modified":"2023-03-07T14:24:41","modified_gmt":"2023-03-07T20:24:41","slug":"pcc-formulating-with-niacinamide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/13816\/pcc-formulating-with-niacinamide\/","title":{"rendered":"Formulating with Niacinamide"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"PhotoNiacinamide<\/a> is a version of vitamin B3 (Niacin) that is used in formulas<\/a> to brighten the complexion, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, reduce trans-epidermal water loss,\u00a0 improve skin elasticity, and fight inflammation. While it is found in nature in various foods such as peanuts, root vegetables and mushrooms, the materials available to formulators are all synthetically produced.<\/p>\n

Niacinamide<\/a> is one of those ingredients that gets so much good press that it makes you wonder why every formula<\/a> doesn’t include it. However, as scientists, we need more than marketing hype to persuade us to use an ingredient. These types of decisions should be based on what the science really says. Whenever you are considering using an active ingredient, it is helpful to view the research through the lens of what is known as the three Kligman questions.<\/p>\n

Albert Kligman was a famous dermatologist who did much to advance the science of skin care. For any active ingredients he would pose three questions to help evaluate whether an anti-aging ingredient<\/a> was functional.<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Based on the chemistry of the ingredient, is there any scientific mechanism that could explain why it would work?<\/li>\n
  2. Does it penetrate to the part of the skin where it needs to be in order to work?<\/li>\n
  3. Are there peer-reviewed, double-blind, placebo-controlled studies demonstrating the ingredient really works when applied to real people?<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Question 1 – Can science explain how it might work?<\/strong> Yes, partially. The mechanisms for ALL these proposed benefits of niacinamide are not fully understood. However, niacinamide<\/a>\u2019s ability to increase the antioxidant capacity of the skin is well studied. It works by chemically reducing NADP+ (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide Phosphate) which is a biomolecule involved in creating larger molecules from smaller ones. Niacinamide<\/a> may also reduce water loss by increasing the production of lipids and ceramides and by increasing cell turnover. It may reduce wrinkles by increasing collagen production. Finally, it lightens age spots by reducing the amount of pigment transferred from melanocytes to keratinocytes.<\/p>\n

    Question 2 \u2013 Can it penetrate the skin?<\/strong> Niacinamide<\/a> has been demonstrated to penetrate the skin and several studies indirectly proved penetration by measuring increased NAD (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide) in cells after topical application (which increases due to the skin metabolizing vitamin B3.)\u00a0 This suggests that niacinamide<\/a> is an effective anti-aging ingredient.<\/p>\n

    Question 3 – Is there proof it does something when topically applied?<\/strong> Partially. Skin brightening has been proven in several half-face studies. Some of the studies also measured niacinamide<\/a>\u2019s ability to reduce photo-aging. Additionally, multiple randomized, placebo-controlled trials demonstrate notable improvements in skin texture, elasticity, and wrinkles. This was on subjects using a 5% niacinamide<\/a> cream daily for 12 weeks. But clinical trials featuring more participants are still needed to demonstrate definitively whether it works for photoaging. All in all, it is one of the more promising \u201ccosmeceuticals\u201d.<\/p>\n

    Since niacinamide<\/a> is a water-soluble material, to be effective it needs to be used in leave-on formulas only.\u00a0 It is light stable so you don’t have to worry about it breaking down in glass containers and optimum solution stability is reported to be pH 6. At lower pH levels, it can hydrolyze and form nicotinic acid<\/a> which can result in skin irritation. The use level of niacinamide<\/a> varies depending on the desired benefits but use levels of 2 to 5% are what have been shown effective in lab testing. Whether this will apply to your own formulation<\/a> will depend on a number of factors including the other ingredients used, the mixing procedure, and the quality of raw materials<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Niacinamide is a version of vitamin B3 (Niacin) that is used in formulas to brighten the complexion, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, reduce trans-epidermal water loss,\u00a0 improve skin elasticity, and fight inflammation. While it is found in nature in various … Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":12461,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"ppma_author":[1258],"class_list":{"0":"post-13816","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"entry"},"yoast_head":"\nFormulating with Niacinamide - Prospector Knowledge Center<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Niacinamide is one of those ingredients that gets a lot of good press, but what do scientists really think? 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