{"id":16512,"date":"2024-02-21T07:00:39","date_gmt":"2024-02-21T13:00:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=16512"},"modified":"2024-05-09T10:44:31","modified_gmt":"2024-05-09T16:44:31","slug":"pcc-locks-in-the-lab-formulating-strategies-for-achieving-thicker-hair","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/16512\/pcc-locks-in-the-lab-formulating-strategies-for-achieving-thicker-hair\/","title":{"rendered":"Locks in the Lab \u2013 Formulating Strategies for Achieving Thicker Hair"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"Of the numerous hair care problems that consumers report, thinning hair is one of the most common. It is right up there with greying hair and balding.\u00a0 Unfortunately, there are a limited number of consumer perceptible technologies that can actually impact hair thickness. As a cosmetic chemist, my approach to hair thickeners<\/a> in formulating is one of cautious optimism mixed with a healthy dose of skepticism. While hair thickeners are widely advertised for their ability to add volume and fullness to hair, the final results are often disappointing. But that doesn’t stop cosmetic formulators from trying! When faced with a marketing department that wants you to make a hair-thickening formula, here are a few technologies you can try.<\/p>\n

Hair Thickening Strategies<\/strong><\/p>\n

There are really only a few formulating techniques for making hair look thicker.\u00a0 One is using an ingredient that can coat the hair with a thin film that makes the hair strand measurably thicker or just look thicker. Another is using an ingredient that can help swell the hair fiber to make it seem thicker. Common ingredients<\/a> used in these strategies include polymers, proteins, and natural extracts. There is another formulating strategy for making a volumizing cleansing product. That is to increase the level of surfactants<\/a> so the hair gets so clean that all the oil is removed from the fiber and it repels the other fibers around it.<\/p>\n

Of course, it should be mentioned that many ingredients<\/a> promise to thicken hair by increasing the growth of the fiber. The only topical with good evidence behind this is Minoxidil<\/a>. These types of ingredients would be considered drugs in the US and fall outside the realm of cosmetics so will not be covered here.<\/p>\n

\n

Search compliance highlights and natural and organic certifications with Prospector Premium, learn more\u00a0here<\/a>!<\/h3>\n
\n

Efficacy: Does It Really Work?<\/strong><\/p>\n

The effectiveness of hair thickeners<\/a> largely depends on the formulation and the individual’s hair type. Styling polymers like PVP<\/a> or PVP\/VA<\/a> form a film around hair strands, and can hold a shape. Using these products, consumers can certainly make hair look thicker.<\/p>\n

A similar strategy can work from rinse-off products.\u00a0 Cationic polymers like Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride<\/a>, Polyquaternium-10<\/a>, or Polyquaternium-7<\/a> can all stick to the hair during the rinse-off phase and leave a film. This has the potential to make hair look and feel thicker.<\/p>\n

Hydrolyzed proteins such as keratin<\/a> are claimed to penetrate the hair shaft, reinforcing its structure. This in turn is supposed to make hair look thicker.\u00a0 However, it is debatable whether these penetrate to a significant extent (especially from rinse-off products) so it is unlikely they will have much impact on the final perception of hair thickness.\u00a0 Additionally, some consumers believe in an unproven concept called \u201cprotein fatigue\u201d where exposure to proteins leaves their hair feeling dry and coarse. There is little evidence that this is a real phenomenon however, it can impact the marketing of products so it is important to know your customer if you want to try proteins in your formulas.<\/p>\n

Of course, most of these strategies will disappoint the consumer because they don’t actually increase the hair density. Often when consumers are looking for thickening products, they are seeking products that will look like it increased the number of hair fibers on their head.\u00a0 Unfortunately, we don’t have good formulating solutions to that. The only thing even close that would be considered a cosmetic is spray on hair fibers. These can be either real keratin fibers or polymeric fibers that match the physical characteristics of hair. This technology has been around for a long time and the fact that it hasn’t been widely adapted by consumers suggests that it does not solve the problem to consumer’s satisfaction.<\/p>\n

Addressing thinning hair remains a challenging yet intriguing field in cosmetic chemistry. Despite the wide range of technologies and strategies claiming to thicken hair, the reality often falls short of consumer expectations. Techniques involving coating agents, volumizing ingredients, and even temporary fixes like hair fibers offer some degree of improvement, but they do not fundamentally change the hair’s density or natural growth patterns. As a cosmetic chemist, it is essential to keep a realistic view of what we can really accomplish. While we can make strides in enhancing the appearance of hair, true thickening would likely require some type of drug product that restarts dormant follicles.<\/p>\n

Ultimately, the success of any hair thickening product lies not just in its formulation, but also in a marketing story that aligns consumer expectations with what can realistically be delivered.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Of the numerous hair care problems that consumers report, thinning hair is one of the most common. It is right up there with greying hair and balding.\u00a0 Unfortunately, there are a limited number of consumer perceptible technologies that can actually … Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":15822,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[359,379,802],"ppma_author":[1258],"class_list":{"0":"post-16512","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"tag-hair-care","9":"tag-personal-care","10":"tag-hair-thickener","11":"entry"},"yoast_head":"\nFormulating 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