{"id":3202,"date":"2015-10-09T08:00:05","date_gmt":"2015-10-09T14:00:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=3202"},"modified":"2018-07-11T12:30:00","modified_gmt":"2018-07-11T18:30:00","slug":"multitasking-emollients","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/3202\/multitasking-emollients\/","title":{"rendered":"Multitasking Emollients"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright\" src=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2015\/10\/MultitaskingEmollients02.jpg\" alt=\"MultitaskingEmollients02\" width=\"400\" height=\"373\" \/>Multitasking <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Product\/search?k=Emollients&amp;sug=1&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">emollients<\/a> are ingredients that can both improve skin feel and provide other significant benefits. They can be used in formulations to thicken, provide shine, modify skin feel, help dissolve actives, increase skin hydration\/elasticity\/barrier function, and moisturize by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). The key physical\/chemical properties of emollients which determine their functionality include molecular weight, polarity, viscosity, freezing\/melting point, surface tension, contact angle, and refractive index.<\/p>\n<h3>Emollients as moisturizing ingredients<\/h3>\n<p>Emollients can significantly improve the function of skin by different mechanisms, such as:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Penetrating\u00a0into stratum corneum epidermal lipids and modifying their crystallinity, resulting in reduced TEWL and increased hydration\/elasticity<\/li>\n<li>Acting as\u00a0pro humectants, which penetrate the stratum corneum and release humectant due to the presence of endogenous skin esterase enzymes.<\/li>\n<li>Up-regulating aquaporin 3 responsible for water homeostasis.<\/li>\n<li>Up-regulating skin tight junctions, desmosomes, and epidermal differentiation genes.<\/li>\n<li>Functioning as pseudo epidermal lipids to improve skin barrier function. They can mimic the functionality of epidermal lipids and augment natural epidermal lipids to help repair a defective barrier.<\/li>\n<li>Acting as perioxime proliferator activating receptors (PPARs). PPARs are fatty acid activated transcription factors that regulate lipid, glucose, and amino acid metabolism. No class of active I know can deliver as many different types of skin benefits as PPAR activators. Key benefits include improving skin barrier function, skin lightening, reducing wrinkles and improving skin texture<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Looking for emollients for your skin care formulations?<\/h3>\n<p>Prospector has thousands of product listings for emollients. View technical data and request samples from a huge list of suppliers now.<\/p>\n<h3><a role=\"button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Product\/search?k=Emollients&amp;sug=1&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nSearch Emollients<br \/>\n<\/a><\/h3>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Recommended moisturizing emollients<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Isosorbide dicaprylate (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/4702\/220359\/HydraSynol-DOI?st=31&amp;sl=35576287&amp;crit=SXNvc29yYmlkZSBkaWNhcHJ5bGF0ZQ%3d%3d&amp;ss=2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">HydraSynol DOI<\/a> \u2013 Sytheon) stimulates aquaporin 3, e\u2010cadherin, claudins and desmosome proteins. It also works synergistically with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=4294961971&amp;sug=1&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">glycerin<\/a> to hydrate skin.<\/li>\n<li>C12-13 alkyl lactate (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/2264\/68055\/COSMACOL-ELI?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cosmacol ELI<\/a>\u00a0\u2013 Sasol Performance Chemicals) has been shown to significantly reduce TEWL, reduce wrinkles, improve acne, reduce sebum, increase cell turnover, increase skin hydration, increase skin smoothness, and can act as a pro humectant.<\/li>\n<li>Di-C12-13 alkyl malate (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/2264\/68056\/COSMACOL-EMI?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cosmacol EMI<\/a>\u00a0\u2013\u00a0Sasol Performance Chemicals) has been shown to significantly reduce TEWL, reduce wrinkles, improve acne, reduce sebum, increase cell turnover, increase skin hydration, increase skin smoothness, and can act as a pro humectant.<\/li>\n<li>PPG 15 stearyl ether (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/134\/97600\/Arlamol-PS15E?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Arlamol PS15E<\/a> \u2013 Croda) has been shown to increase both\u00a0skin hydration and elasticity.<\/li>\n<li>Isostearyl isostearate (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/134\/520173\/Crodamol-ISIS?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Crodamol ISIS<\/a> \u2013 Croda) is very effective at reducing TEWL (better than petrolatum).<\/li>\n<li>Isopropyl isostearate (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/134\/22414\/Crodamol-IPIS?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Crodamol IPIS<\/a>) is effective at increasing skin hydration.<\/li>\n<li>Palmitamide MEA (Nikkol PMEA \u2013 Barnet Products) is a PPAR activator.<\/li>\n<li>Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil unsaponifiables (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/3036\/91623\/Soline?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Soline<\/a> \u2013 Expanscience) is a PPAR activator that has been shown to stimulate epidermal lipid synthesis<\/li>\n<li>Hexyldecanol, bisabolol, cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide, stearic acid, and brassica campestris (rapeseed) sterols (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/3030\/216999\/SymRepair-100?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">SymRepair 100<\/a>\u00a0\u2013\u00a0Symrise) has been clinically shown to protect and repair skin barrier function at .1%.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Emollients as solvents<\/h3>\n<p>Crystalline actives like salicylic acid, avobenzone and oxybenzone require high polarity emollients to solubilize them into the oil phase and prevent crystallization in formulations over time.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>PPG 15 stearyl ether (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/134\/97600\/Arlamol-PS15E?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Arlamol PS15E<\/a> \u2013 Croda) is an excellent solvent for salicylic acid, allowing for easy incorporation into the oil phase of an oil in water emulsion at 2%, without the use of high concentrations of solvents like Ethanol. It is also acid stable and can help reduce the irritation of the salicylic acid at low PH.<\/li>\n<li>Butylphthalimide isopropylphthalimide (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/1267\/44534\/PELEMOL-BIP-PC?st=31&amp;sl=35576511&amp;crit=a2V5d29yZDpbQnV0eWxwaHRoYWxpbWlkZSBpc29wcm9weWxwaHRoYWxpbWlkZV0%3d&amp;ss=2&amp;k=Butylphthalimide|isopropylphthalimide&amp;t=Butylphthalimide+isopropylphthalimide\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pelemol BIP PC<\/a>\u00a0\u2013 Phoenix Chemical) can dissolve up to 40% avobenzone and has a very low skin irritation potential.<\/li>\n<li>Dipropylene glycol dibenzoate (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=4294955705&amp;sug=1&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Finsolv PG22<\/a> \u2013 InnoSpec) can dissolve up to 37% oxybenzone and 29% avobenzone. It also claims to have similar skin moisturizing properties as petrolatum.<\/li>\n<li>Phenyl ethyl benzoate (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/305\/19506\/X-Tend-226?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">X-Tend 226<\/a>\u00a0\u2013Ashland) can dissolve up to 35% oxybenzone and 24% avobenzone. It can also increase the lambda max of avobenzone-containing formulations to ~376 nm.<\/li>\n<li>PPG-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Detail\/134\/114830\/Crodamol-SFX?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Crodamol SFX<\/a> \u2013 Croda) can dissolve up to 18% oxybenzone and 18% avobenzone. It can also increase the lambda max of avobenzone-containing formulations to ~380 nm.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Multitasking emollients are ingredients that can both improve skin feel and provide other significant benefits. They can be used in formulations to thicken, provide shine, modify skin feel, help dissolve actives, increase skin hydration\/elasticity\/barrier function, and moisturize by reducing trans-epidermal &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/3202\/multitasking-emollients\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":3218,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[282],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-3202","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"tag-category-deep-dive","9":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Multitasking Emollients - Prospector Knowledge Center<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/3202\/multitasking-emollients\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Multitasking Emollients - Prospector Knowledge Center\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Multitasking emollients are ingredients that can both improve skin feel and provide other significant benefits. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...\",\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/author\\\/george-deckner\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Multitasking Emollients - Prospector Knowledge Center","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/3202\/multitasking-emollients\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"Multitasking Emollients - Prospector Knowledge Center","og_description":"Multitasking emollients are ingredients that can both improve skin feel and provide other significant benefits. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...","sameAs":["https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com"],"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/author\/george-deckner\/"}]}},"authors":[{"term_id":1251,"user_id":6,"is_guest":0,"slug":"george-deckner","display_name":"George Deckner","avatar_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpg","0":null,"1":"","2":"","3":"","4":"","5":"","6":"","7":"","8":""}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3202","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3202"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3202\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3218"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3202"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3202"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3202"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=3202"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}