{"id":3830,"date":"2016-02-12T08:00:58","date_gmt":"2016-02-12T14:00:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=3830"},"modified":"2018-07-24T14:27:15","modified_gmt":"2018-07-24T20:27:15","slug":"pcc-evaluating-your-cosmetic-prototypes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/3830\/pcc-evaluating-your-cosmetic-prototypes\/","title":{"rendered":"Evaluating your cosmetic prototypes"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"EvaluatingPrototypes02\"To be an expert cosmetic formulator, it\u2019s not enough to learn the science of cosmetic raw materials<\/a> and which ones are compatible with each other. While this information is critical, another part of the cosmetic formulator job is just as important: properly evaluating your prototypes.<\/p>\n

Experience has shown that an excellent and inexpensive way to understand the way consumers interact with your formulas is to try them yourself. I was amazed to discover there were formulators who never tried the products they made. It continues to baffle me.<\/p>\n

\n

Looking for ingredients for your cosmetic prototype?<\/h3>\n

Prospector has listings for thousands of personal care materials complete with technical data and the ability to request samples.<\/p>\n


\nSearch Ingredients Now
\n<\/a><\/h3>\n
\n

While trying your prototypes is important it’s even more important to evaluate them in a systematic way. Here is a system that you can use to evaluate your own formulations. After you’ve practiced this system enough times, you can consider yourself a product evaluation expert, at least for that particular product type.<\/p>\n

Step 1 \u2013 Pick a benchmark<\/strong><\/h3>\n

It is almost never the case that you will be developing a product completely new to the market. There is always a market leader that you should compare yourself to. This can be a competitive product or one of your own formulations. You just need to pick some product as a starting point. This is the thing you are trying to beat.<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re looking for a benchmark, it is always a good idea to pick a product that is the best selling in whatever market you’re formulating. For example, when you’re creating a hair care<\/a> product you should look at the sales data and choose the best selling product as your benchmark.<\/p>\n

Step 2 \u2013 Develop your baseline skills<\/strong><\/h3>\n

In 2005, I probably had the most shampooed head in America. That year while working on a new shampoo<\/a> and conditioner<\/a> formula I washed my hair over 1500 times. I was a big believer in trying every prototype. While using the products I did it paying close attention to specific characteristics which helped me develop the ability to notice subtle differences.<\/p>\n

Now, each formula type and category is different but there are some general things you can pay attention to while evaluating products.<\/p>\n

For hair products the most important characteristics include:<\/strong><\/h5>\n
    \n
  1. Rinse time<\/strong> \u2013 how long it takes to be removed from hair<\/li>\n
  2. Flash foam<\/strong> \u2013 how fast the foam forms<\/li>\n
  3. Lather feel<\/strong> \u2013 does the lather feel creamy or loose<\/li>\n
  4. Feel in hair<\/strong> \u2013 how does the product feel in the hair<\/li>\n
  5. Spreadability<\/strong> \u2013 how easy is it to move through hair<\/li>\n
  6. After feel<\/strong> \u2013 what does hair feel like after using it<\/li>\n
  7. Dry feel<\/strong> \u2013 when hair dries how does it feel<\/li>\n
  8. Lasting feel<\/strong> \u2013 how does hair feel later in the day<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
    For skin products\u2026<\/strong><\/h5>\n
      \n
    1. Rub in time<\/strong> \u2013 how long it takes to disappear<\/li>\n
    2. Greasiness<\/strong> \u2013 how does it feel on skin<\/li>\n
    3. Tackiness<\/strong> \u2013 does skin feel sticky<\/li>\n
    4. Overall feel<\/strong> \u2013 after you\u2019ve applied it how does it feel<\/li>\n
    5. Whiteness<\/strong> \u2013 how does it effect skin color<\/li>\n
    6. Reapplication time<\/strong> \u2013 how long does moisturizing effect last<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      For each of these characteristics you should develop a rating scale (1-5 or 1-10 works well). Then use your benchmark formula and give ratings for each important characteristic. It\u2019s good to repeat this process and see if your scores stay consistent.<\/p>\n

      Step 3 \u2013 Make prototypes<\/strong><\/h3>\n

      Once you\u2019ve developed your baseline skills, test one of your prototypes. Ideally, you have created a prototype in which you\u2019ve changed only one variable. This will make it easier for you to identify which ingredient is responsible for any significant changes. If you continually test radically different prototypes it will be more difficult for you to get formulating direction from the results of your test.<\/p>\n

      Step 4 \u2013 Test prototype alone<\/strong><\/h3>\n

      Just as you did with the baseline sample, you should test your prototype a few times and then rate it for the most important characteristics. Be sure to try and forget what your scores are for the benchmark product. At this point it is not that important to be blinded however, as you\u2019re just trying to see if your new prototype is worth further testing.<\/p>\n

      Step 5 \u2013 Compare samples<\/strong><\/h3>\n

      Once you find a prototype that you want to explore further, set up a blinded test and do your evaluation. The key to a blinded test is that you have no way of knowing which samples are which. So, if there are color differences keep your eyes closed when evaluating the product. If there are odor differences try to hold your nose. Ideally, you could match fragrances<\/a> to eliminate this variable.<\/p>\n

      You can give ratings for the samples or you can just decide which you like better. If you like your prototype better, great! But don\u2019t celebrate just yet. Re-run the test a couple of times to see if you consistently pick the prototype over the benchmark. If you can\u2019t, then you don\u2019t have an improvement.<\/p>\n

      Step 6 \u2013 Get opinions from others<\/strong><\/h3>\n

      If you are satisfied that your testing shows your prototype is better, then try it out on a few colleagues. Give them samples of your prototype and the benchmark and ask them if they notice any differences. Also, have them pick which they like better. Make it a forced choice.<\/p>\n

      Step 7 \u2013 Revise prototypes<\/strong><\/h3>\n

      Make revisions to your prototype based on the response you get from your own testing and that of the other people who have tried your cosmetic formulation. You really should try at least half a dozen revisions before being satisfied with any results.<\/p>\n

      Step 8 \u2013 Performance tests<\/strong><\/h3>\n

      If you are satisfied with your in-use tests, it\u2019s time to do some laboratory performance tests. The specific tests you do depends on the type of product you are making. For cleansing products you\u2019ll want to test foam. For moisturizing products, test moisturization. Color products you test wear. There are just innumerable number of tests you can conduct.<\/p>\n

      Once your prototype outscores your benchmark, it\u2019s time to move forward and push the product along to development. Congratulations!<\/p>\n

      Now, just one other thing\u2026don\u2019t forget to do an early stability test<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      To be an expert cosmetic formulator, it\u2019s not enough to learn the science of cosmetic raw materials and which ones are compatible with each other. While this information is critical, another part of the cosmetic formulator job is just as … Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":3834,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"ppma_author":[1258],"class_list":{"0":"post-3830","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"entry"},"yoast_head":"\nEvaluating your cosmetic prototypes - Prospector Knowledge Center<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/3830\/pcc-evaluating-your-cosmetic-prototypes\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Evaluating your cosmetic prototypes - Prospector Knowledge Center\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"To be an expert cosmetic formulator, it\u2019s not enough to learn the science of cosmetic raw materials and which ones are compatible with each other. 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His primary focus has been on hair and\u00a0hair-related products. He is currently vice president of Brains\u00a0Publishing, which specialized in science education. In 2014,\u00a0Romanowski founded the Practical Cosmetic Formulating online training\u00a0program to provide cosmetic chemists continuing education across a broad\u00a0range of formula categories. Previously, Romanowski worked for Alberto Culver\u00a0serving as a senior project leader for hair care innovation. He is currently\u00a0the Area II National Director for the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC). \u00a0Additionally, he has made numerous media appearances including spots on popular TV shows including\u00a0the Dr. Oz show and the Rachel Ray show. Romanowski received his B.S. in Chemistry from DePaul University. He has written and edited numerous articles and\u00a0books, taught the SCC\u2019s Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry continuing\u00a0education class, and developed websites including ChemistsCorner.com and TheBeautyBrains.com.\u00a0 His latest book \"It's OK to Have Lead in Your Lipstick\" answers common questions about cosmetic products.\u00a0 In addition, he\u00a0provides consulting services for cosmetic formulating, testing and\u00a0Internet solutions; he can be reached through his\u00a0website,\u00a0www.ChemistsCorner.com.","sameAs":["http:\/\/ulprospector.com"],"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/author\/perry-romanowski\/"}]}},"authors":[{"term_id":1258,"user_id":24,"is_guest":0,"slug":"perry-romanowski","display_name":"Perry Romanowski","avatar_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/Perry-Romanowski_avatar_1508793389-96x96.jpg","0":null,"1":"","2":"","3":"","4":"","5":"","6":"","7":"","8":""}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3830","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/24"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3830"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3830\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3834"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3830"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3830"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3830"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=3830"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}