{"id":5840,"date":"2017-02-03T08:10:39","date_gmt":"2017-02-03T14:10:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=5840"},"modified":"2023-03-09T17:05:27","modified_gmt":"2023-03-09T23:05:27","slug":"pcc-emollient-technology-overview","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/5840\/pcc-emollient-technology-overview\/","title":{"rendered":"An Overview of Emollient Technology"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_5859\" class=\"thumbnail wp-caption alignright\" style=\"width: 300px\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/01\/67941797_600400-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"Emollient technology\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" \/><figcaption class=\"caption wp-caption-text\">Copyright: <a href=\"http:\/\/www.123rf.com\/profile_tananddda\">tananddda \/ 123RF Stock Photo<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Emollients are among the most common ingredients used in personal care formulations. The word emollient is derived from the Latin word <em>mollis<\/em> or <em>molle,<\/em> which means soft, pliable, and supple.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Product\/search?k=Emollients&amp;sug=1&amp;st=31\">Emollients<\/a> are normally defined as ingredients that impart a smooth, soft, or lubricious feeling to skin. The term emolliency usually refers to the spreading and lubricity on skin or hair as a function of time.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>Benefits of emollients<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p>Emollients, however, are multifunctional ingredients that can provide numerous other benefits such as;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Modify skin feel: skin feel correlates closely with molecular weight (MW) and viscosity<\/li>\n<li>Provide shine to skin, hair, and lips: the refractive index of an emollient correlates well with skin shine<\/li>\n<li>Condition hair: mainly use high MW Silicone fluids (&gt;100K cSt.)<\/li>\n<li>Act as the main formulation carrier in anhydrous formulations<\/li>\n<li>Act as an active solvent: generally high polarity emollients are preferred<\/li>\n<li>Thicken anhydrous, oil in water, and water in oil formulations<\/li>\n<li>Moisturize, skin, and improve skin elasticity<\/li>\n<li>Reduce skin moisture loss (transepidermal water loss, or TEWL)<\/li>\n<li>Modulate active skin delivery<\/li>\n<li>Can <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=wrinkles&amp;st=31\">reduce the appearance of wrinkles<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Can increase cell turnover<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4><strong>Chemical types of emollients<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p>The chemical types of emollients include esters (most common), fatty alcohols, \u00a0fatty acids, ethers, silicones, and hydrocarbons.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=emollient+ester&amp;st=31\"><strong>Esters<\/strong><\/a> are compounds formed by reacting acids with alcohols or polyols. Most natural emollients are triglyceride based oils formed by reacting Glycerin with fatty acids. Many esters however are not stable at low or high PH and can break down into their starting materials over time. In general, the more water soluble an ester is, the lower is its hydrolytic stability. Also, highly branched esters are more stable.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=emollient+Fatty%20alcohols&amp;st=31\"><strong>Fatty alcohols<\/strong><\/a> are organic compounds in which a hydroxyl group is attached to a saturated, unsaturated, or branched carbon and the chain length is greater than about seven carbons. Typical fatty alcohols used in formulations include Cetyl, Stearyl, Isostearyl, Oleyl, Octyldodecyl, and Behenyl alcohols.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=emollient+Fatty%20acids&amp;st=31\"><strong>Fatty acids<\/strong><\/a> are mono carboxylic acids having a chain length greater than about seven carbons. Typical fatty acids used include Lauric, Myristic, Palmitic, Stearic, Oleic, Isostearic, Ricinoleic, and Behenic acid.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=emollient+Ethers&amp;st=31\"><strong>Ethers<\/strong><\/a> are compounds in which an oxygen atom connected to two alkyl or aryl groups and are very stable to low or high PH and oxidizing agents.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Silicones<\/strong> are linear or cyclic polymers of silicone\/oxygen monomers. The polymers are made up of alternating silicone and oxygen atoms and may carry end or pendant block groups that can be functionalized. Dimethicone (various MWs), Cyclopentasiloxane, and Dimethicone\/ Dimethicone Crosspolymers are the types mainly used as emollients.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Hydrocarbons<\/strong> are compounds carrying only carbon and hydrogen groups. These include aliphatic, cyclic, and aromatic groups. The main types used include mineral oil, Petrolateum, Squalane, Isododecane, Isohexadecane, Microcrystalline wax, Polyethylene, Ozokerite, and Paraffin wax.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>Factors to consider in choosing emollients<\/strong><\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li>The desired skin or hair benefit: my preference is to use emollients that are multifunctional.<\/li>\n<li>Skin compatibility, irritation profile: low MW emollients typically are more irritating than high MW ones.<\/li>\n<li>Polarity: important when solubilizing sunscreens like Avobenzone.<\/li>\n<li>Spreading characteristics: typically you need to use combinations of high, medium and low spreading emollients to get the right skin feel. Low MW\/viscosity emollients rapidly spread on skin and have a less greasy, lighter feel.<\/li>\n<li>Substantivity: important for rinse off products. The structure, MW, and viscosity are the critical factors.<\/li>\n<li>Impact on foam\/lather: important for shampoo and body wash formulations. You need to use emollients that have a high enough MW so they don\u2019t readily form micelles.<\/li>\n<li>Stability: important for high or low PH formulations and those containing oxidizing or reducing agents.<\/li>\n<li>Concept support (when using exotic oils or butters)<\/li>\n<li>Global approval\/availability<\/li>\n<li>Cost<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h4>Recommended products<\/h4>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Product\/search?k=volatile+emollients&amp;st=31\"><strong>Volatile emollients<\/strong><\/a>: used to provide temporary emolliency and aid in film formation.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Cyclopentasiloxane (Xiameter PMX-0245 Cyclopentasiloxane-Nexeo Solutions)<\/li>\n<li>Isododecane (Permethyl 99-PreSperse)<\/li>\n<li>Dimethicone .65 cSt. (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid, 65 cSt-Nexeo Solutions)<\/li>\n<li>Isoparaffin cuts (C9-C16)<\/li>\n<li>Ethyl Trisiloxane (Silsoft ETS Trisiloxane-Momentive Performance Chemicals)<\/li>\n<li>Caprylyl Methicone (Dow Corning FZ-3196)<\/li>\n<li>Trisiloxane (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1 cSt-Nexeo Solutions)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Product\/search?k=natural+emollients&amp;st=31\"><strong>Natural emollients<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Jojoba, Safflower, Coconut, Castor, Sunflower, Palm, Peanut, and Olive oil<\/li>\n<li>Coca and Shea butter<\/li>\n<li>Carnauba, Candellila, and Beeswax<\/li>\n<li>Squalane<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Light skin feel, fast spreading emollients<\/strong> (MW&lt;300 Daltons)<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Cyclopentasiloxane (Xiameter PMX-0245 Cyclopentasiloxane-Nexeo Solutions)<\/li>\n<li>Isopropyl Isostearate (Schercemol 318 Ester-Lubrizol)<\/li>\n<li>Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Polyiso 200,250- Elementis)<\/li>\n<li>Propylheptyl Caprylate (Cetiol Soft-BASF)<\/li>\n<li>Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol CC-BASF)<\/li>\n<li>Dicaprylyl Ether (Cetiol OE-BASF)<\/li>\n<li>C12-15 Alkyl Lactate (Ceraphyl 41-Ashland)<\/li>\n<li>C12-15 Alcohol Benzoate (Finsolv TN-Innospec)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Medium skin feel, spreading emollients<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Dermol DID-Alzo)<\/li>\n<li>Isostearyl Isostearate (Schercemol 1818 Ester)<\/li>\n<li>PPG 15 Stearyl Ether (Arlamol E-Croda)<\/li>\n<li>Caprylic\/Capric Triglyceride (Myritol 312-BASF)<\/li>\n<li>Cetyl Ricinoleate (Naturechem CR-Vertellus Performance Materials)<\/li>\n<li>Neossance Squalane (Squalane-Centerchem)<\/li>\n<li>Hydrogenation Polyisobutene (Polyiso 300, 450- Fancor)<\/li>\n<li>Dimethicone (5-50 cSt)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cushion Emollients<\/strong>: used to provide residual emolliency<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Pentaerythritol Tetraisostearate (Crodamol PTIS-Croda)<\/li>\n<li>Pentaerythritol Tetraoctanoate (Trivent PE-48-Alzo)<\/li>\n<li>Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate (Ceraphyl 791-Ashland)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Emollients for solubilizing polar, crystalline actives<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Butylphthalimide Isopropylphthalimide (Pelemol PIP-Phoenix Chemical)<\/li>\n<li>Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate (Finsolv PG22-InnoSpec)<\/li>\n<li>Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate (Extend 226-Ashland)<\/li>\n<li>Diethyl Hexyl Maleate (Bernel Ester DOM-Alzo)<\/li>\n<li>Dicaprylyl Isosorbide (HydraSynol DOI-Sytheon)<\/li>\n<li>Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Eldew SL 205-Ajinomoto)<\/li>\n<li>Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate (LexFeel Shine-Inolex)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Hydrating\/moisturizing emollients<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>PPG 15 Stearyl Ether (Arlamol PS15E-Croda)<\/li>\n<li>Isopropyl Isostearate (Schercemol 318 Ester-Lubrizol)<\/li>\n<li>C12-15 Lactate (Ceraphyl 41 Ester-Ashland)<\/li>\n<li>Di-C12\/13 Maleate (Cosmacol EMI-Sasol)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Emollients for increasing skin elasticity<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>PPG 15 Stearyl Ether (Arlamol PS15E -Croda)<\/li>\n<li>Propylene Glycol Isostearate (Citrol PGIS -Croda)<\/li>\n<li>Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate (Crodamol TTIS-Croda)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Emollients for TEWL reduction<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Petrolatum<\/li>\n<li>Isostearyl Neopentanoate (Wickenol 150-Alzo)<\/li>\n<li>Isostearyl Isostearate (Dermol 1818-Alzo)<\/li>\n<li>Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate (Cosmacol EMI -Sasol)<\/li>\n<li>Cosmacol ELI (C12\/13 Lactate-Sasol)<\/li>\n<li>Squalane (Neossance Squalane-Centerchem)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<table border=\"1\" width=\"100%\" cellspacing=\"0\" cellpadding=\"5px\">\n<tbody>\n<tr style=\"height: 36px;\">\n<td style=\"font-family: Gotham, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; background-color: #999999; color: #ffffff; padding: 5px; height: 36px;\">Sponsored Products<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 48px;\">\n<td style=\"font-family: Gotham, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; padding: 5px; height: 48px;\"><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/dm\/a.aspx?ZoneID=0&amp;BannerID=1843&amp;AdvertiserID=221&amp;CampaignID=1589&amp;Task=Click&amp;SiteID=1&amp;RandomNumber=412841\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Meadowfoam Seed Oil<\/a><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/dm\/a.aspx?ZoneID=0&amp;BannerID=1843&amp;AdvertiserID=221&amp;CampaignID=1589&amp;Task=Get&amp;Mode=TEXT&amp;SiteID=1&amp;RandomNumber=412841\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" \/>\u00a0<\/strong>by Natural Plant Products, Inc.\u00a0&#8211; Meadowfoam Seed Oil is the fully refined triglyceride derived from the seeds of Limnanthes alba. The oil is a light-colored, odor free product composed of over 95% fatty acids with chain lengths of 20 carbons or more.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 48px;\">\n<td style=\"font-family: Gotham, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; padding: 5px; height: 48px;\"><strong><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/dm\/a.aspx?ZoneID=0&amp;BannerID=1844&amp;AdvertiserID=221&amp;CampaignID=1588&amp;Task=Click&amp;SiteID=1&amp;RandomNumber=418187\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Daikon Seed Extract<\/a><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/dm\/a.aspx?ZoneID=0&amp;BannerID=1844&amp;AdvertiserID=221&amp;CampaignID=1588&amp;Task=Get&amp;Mode=TEXT&amp;SiteID=1&amp;RandomNumber=418187\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" \/>\u00a0<\/strong><\/strong>by Natural Plant Products, Inc.\u00a0-Daikon Seed Extract is a light-colored and odorless triglyceride derived from the seeds of commercial Daikon radish. The extract is mechanically extracted and refined by Natural Plant Products\u2019 manufacturing partners. Its unique fatty acid composition is an atypical mixture of C18, C20 and C22 fatty acids, and offers a new chemistry to formulators.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Emollients are among the most common ingredients used in personal care formulations. The word emollient is derived from the Latin word mollis or molle, which means soft, pliable, and supple. Emollients are normally defined as ingredients that impart a smooth, &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/5840\/pcc-emollient-technology-overview\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":5860,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[219],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-5840","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"tag-category-overview","9":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Emollient technology: Benefits, types, and considerations<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Soft, pliable, supple - consumers love how emollients make their skin feel. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...\",\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/author\\\/george-deckner\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Emollient technology: Benefits, types, and considerations","description":"Soft, pliable, supple - consumers love how emollients make their skin feel. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. 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