{"id":6253,"date":"2017-04-07T08:00:14","date_gmt":"2017-04-07T14:00:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=6253"},"modified":"2023-02-01T10:27:25","modified_gmt":"2023-02-01T16:27:25","slug":"pcc-shampoo-formulations-through-the-years","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/6253\/pcc-shampoo-formulations-through-the-years\/","title":{"rendered":"Then and Now: Shampoo Formulations through the Years"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure id=\"attachment_6254\" class=\"thumbnail wp-caption alignright\" style=\"width: 300px\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/04\/16901986_600400-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"Shampoo use dates back to 1762. Read how shampoo formulation has evolved through the years, and how that impacts current practices and market trends.\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" \/><figcaption class=\"caption wp-caption-text\">Copyright: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.123rf.com\/profile_monticello\">monticello \/ 123RF Stock Photo<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Shampoos are products designed to cleanse, condition, and provide a pleasant fresh, clean residual scent to hair. Consumer shampooing habits vary significantly depending on where you live, with the average European washing their hair three times a week, and 80 percent of North Americans and 90 percent of Japanese washing their hair once a day.<\/p>\n<p>This high level of product consumption results in shampoos being the largest personal care category, representing ~37 percent of the total hair care market. The shampoo category has numerous segments, including:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>two-in-one conditioning<\/li>\n<li>body enhancing<\/li>\n<li>volumizing<\/li>\n<li>color protecting<\/li>\n<li>shine enhancing<\/li>\n<li>moisturizing<\/li>\n<li>damage repairing<\/li>\n<li>anti-dandruff<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The use of shampoos dates to 1762 England, when hair stylists boiled shaved soap in water and added herbs to give the hair shine and fragrance. Commercially-made shampoo became available at the beginning of the 20th century.<\/p>\n<p>Magazine ads in 1914 featured Harmony Hair Beautifier and Shampoo by Rexall, as well as young women in a camp washing their hair with Canthrox shampoo. Hans Schwarzkopf developed the first powder shampoo in 1903 and introduced the first liquid shampoo in 1927. He also opened the first training center for hairdressers.<\/p>\n<p>The development of cheap synthetic surfactants after World War II enabled the development of superior performing shampoos, versus the fatty acid soaps that had been used previously.<\/p>\n<p>The next major shampoo development occurred in 1987 when Procter and Gamble launched Pert Plus, the first broadly successful conditioning shampoo. The technology used in Pert Plus was enabled by the development of a cationic polymer (Polyquaternium 10-Polymer JR, Union Carbide) combined with a high molecular weight Dimethicone which provided conditioning properties that weren\u2019t previously possible. Pert Plus revolutionized the shampoo market and created the two-in-one conditioning shampoo category.<\/p>\n<p>Current typical modern shampoo formulations are comprised of:<\/p>\n<table border=\"1\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\"><strong>Ingredient<\/strong><\/td>\n<td width=\"156\"><strong>Percentage<\/strong><\/td>\n<td width=\"156\"><strong>Function<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\">deionized water<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">73-90%<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\"><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\">primary surfactant<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">8-15% active<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">foam\/lather<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\">secondary surfactant<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">2-6% active<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">foam boosting\/ thickening\/mildness improvement<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\">thickening polymers<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">0-2%<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\"><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\">salt<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">0-2%<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">thickening<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\">opacifying\/pearling agents<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">0-1% active<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\"><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\">chelating agent<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">.05-.2%<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">improve hard water performance<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\">conditioning polymers<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">0-1%<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">anti-static, wet\/dry conditioning<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\">conditioning emollients<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">0-1%<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">mostly Silicones for wet conditioning<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\">fragrance<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">0-.5%<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\"><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"156\">preservatives<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\">.001-1%<\/td>\n<td width=\"156\"><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Prospector<sup>\u00ae<\/sup>\u00a0Personal Care &amp; Cosmetics\u00a0material searches<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Functionalities\/3553\/Surfactants\/search?k=shampoo&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Shampoo surfactants<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=Viscosity+Modifiers&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Viscosity modifiers<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Functionalities\/3197\/Opacifying---Pearlizing-Agents\/search?k=shampoo&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Opacifying\/Pearlizing agents<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=shampoo+chelating&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Shampoo chelating agents<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Functionalities\/2499\/Hair-Conditioning-Agents\/search?k=shampoo+conditioning&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hair Conditioning Agents<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Functionalities\/2973\/Fragrance-Ingredients\/search?k=shampoo&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Shampoo fragrance<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Formulation\/search?k=2-in-1&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Two-in-one formulations<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Primary surfactants provide the main foaming and lathering properties of the formulation and are typically anionic surfactants. Sodium\/Ammonium Lauryl sulfates have been the primary surfactant workhorses for decades, historically used alone or in combination with Sodium Laureth 3 Sulfate. Currently many manufacturers have switched to using only Sodium Laureth 1 or 2 Sulfate as the primary surfactant.<\/p>\n<p>Another recent trend has been to use sulfate-free primary surfactants, especially in color protecting shampoos. The most popular used sulfate-free surfactants include Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate\/Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, and Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate.<\/p>\n<p>Secondary surfactants are used to improve the mildness, boost foam\/lather and help thicken shampoos. Cocamidopropyl Betaine is by far the most commonly used secondary surfactant and is the cheapest. Others used include Coco Betaine, Lauryl\/Coco Hydroxypropyl Sultaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Cocamide MEA, and Decyl Glucoside. Many formulations contain combinations of secondary surfactants, especially Cocamide MEA combined with Cocamidopropyl Betaine.<\/p>\n<p>Secondary surfactants are often amphoteric, and function by forming mixed micelles with anionic primary surfactants which can associate and form long rod shaped micelles. This process improves mildness and helps thicken the shampoo. Salt thickens shampoos by reducing micelle charge density, helping to promote the conversion of spherical- to rod-shaped micelles, which can entangle and cause increased viscosity.<\/p>\n<p>The most commonly used cationic polymers are Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (the most popular), Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium 6, and Polyquaternium 7. These polymers are normally combined with Dimethicone (&gt;100 K cts.) or Amodimethicone in most two-in-one conditioning shampoos for better wet and dry combing properties.<\/p>\n<h3>State of the current market<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Shampoos from large producers like L\u2019Oreal, Procter and Gamble, Johnson and Johnson, and Unilever dominate selling nine of the top 10 brands.<\/li>\n<li>Most popular shampoos utilize similar formulations based on alkyl sulfate\/alkyl ether sulfate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine.<\/li>\n<li>Non-conditioning shampoos are differentiated mostly by fragrance and conceptual ingredients.<\/li>\n<li>Most key two-in-one conditioning patents from P&amp;G and Unilever have expired, making the technology generic.<\/li>\n<li>Lack of product innovation and distinctness among currently marketed products. Most innovation is coming from small niche brands.<\/li>\n<li>Lack of store shelf transparency; everything looks and sounds the same.<\/li>\n<li>Little correlation between product price and performance.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Current trends<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Greater use of green, natural based, sustainable ingredients<\/li>\n<li>Development of more premium priced hair care brands<\/li>\n<li>Greater focus on scalp health &#8211; anti-dandruff products are gaining market share.<\/li>\n<li>Powdered shampoos are gaining in popularity.<\/li>\n<li>Development of more structured surfactant-based shampoos. Structured Surfactants are novel surfactant blends that form liquid crystal surfactant phases. These phases consist of a close packed network of spherulites that can suspend high concentrations of oils, silicone, exfoliating, and ZPT (antidandruff active). The formulations also are milder, have a rich dense creamy lather, and a lotion-like feel and texture.<\/li>\n<li>Sulfate-free color protection shampoos<\/li>\n<li>Use of greener surfactants that don\u2019t use petroleum-derived Ethylene Oxide (Sodium Laureth 1, 2, or 3 Sulfate). Several suppliers soon will be producing Sodium ether sulfates using Ethylene Oxide produced from fermentation produced Ethanol<\/li>\n<li>Less use of Silicones in two-in-one shampoos, and more natural based oils<\/li>\n<li>Significantly less use of Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone as preservatives due to safety\/public relations concerns<\/li>\n<li>Biodegradable packaging<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Further reading:<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/5960\/pcc-double-the-benefits-or-double-the-trouble?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Two-in-one shampoo technology: Double the benefits, or double the trouble?<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Shampoos are products designed to cleanse, condition, and provide a pleasant fresh, clean residual scent to hair. Consumer shampooing habits vary significantly depending on where you live, with the average European washing their hair three times a week, and 80 &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/6253\/pcc-shampoo-formulations-through-the-years\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":6254,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[219],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-6253","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"tag-category-overview","9":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Shampoo formulation: historical perspective on current market trends<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Shampoo use dates back to 1762. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...\",\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/author\\\/george-deckner\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Shampoo formulation: historical perspective on current market trends","description":"Shampoo use dates back to 1762. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...","sameAs":["https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com"],"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/author\/george-deckner\/"}]}},"authors":[{"term_id":1251,"user_id":6,"is_guest":0,"slug":"george-deckner","display_name":"George Deckner","avatar_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpg","0":null,"1":"","2":"","3":"","4":"","5":"","6":"","7":"","8":""}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6253","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6253"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6253\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6254"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6253"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6253"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6253"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=6253"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}