{"id":7389,"date":"2017-11-03T08:00:08","date_gmt":"2017-11-03T14:00:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=7389"},"modified":"2021-11-24T10:12:16","modified_gmt":"2021-11-24T16:12:16","slug":"pcc-contemporary-foundation-formulations","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7389\/pcc-contemporary-foundation-formulations\/","title":{"rendered":"From the Bottom Up: Contemporary Foundation Formulations"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_7391\" class=\"thumbnail wp-caption alignright\" style=\"width: 300px\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/11\/pcc-foundation-55050975_OG-300x150.jpg\" alt=\"Foundation cosmetics help improve skin appearance. Learn the different types, coverage, and common materials used in foundation formulation in the Prospector Knowledge Center.\" width=\"300\" height=\"150\" \/><figcaption class=\"caption wp-caption-text\">Copyright: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.123rf.com\/profile_leungchopan\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">leungchopan \/ 123RF Stock Photo<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The purpose of cosmetic foundations is to cover up skin imperfections and provide a natural, even appearance to skin. Foundation formulation helps achieve those goals.<\/p>\n<h3>Foundation history: From Ancient Greece to Modern Day<\/h3>\n<p>The history of foundation use can be traced back as far as 200 B.C. It was considered fashionable to have a pale complexion, so Greek women applied white lead powder and chalk to lighten their skin. Roman women and men also lightened their skins using white lead, chalk, and tin oxide-based creams. This fashion continued during the middle ages up to the early 19th century when consumers used numerous toxic concoctions to lighten their skin.<\/p>\n<p>The development of modern foundation formulation can be credited to Carl Baudin who developed the first theatrical makeup. In 1914, Max Factor developed an improved theatrical makeup version that was more reflective under the lighting used on movie sets.<sup>1<\/sup><\/p>\n<h3>Access additional material data &amp; tools<\/h3>\n<p>Looking for organic product certifications and regulatory compliance information to assist with your development process? Upgrade your Prospector account \u2013 see what\u2019s available today!<\/p>\n<p><a role=\"button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/materials-ingredients?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><br \/>\nLearn more<br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<h3>Cosmetic foundation types<\/h3>\n<p>The types of foundations currently marketed include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>loose and pressed powders<\/li>\n<li>anhydrous pan cake (powder, emollient, wax based)<\/li>\n<li>emulsion based (oil in water, water in oil)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>All foundation formulations are differentiated by shade and the level of opacity or coverage on skin. Coverage refers to how much color it will conceal on skin.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Sheer<\/strong> is the most transparent and contains the least amount of pigment. It will not hide discolorations on the skin but it can minimize the contrast between the discoloration and the rest of the skin tone. Products with sheer coverage have less than 5 percent pigment.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Light<\/strong> can cover unevenness and slight blotchiness, but is not opaque enough to cover freckles. Products with light coverage have 5-10 percent pigment.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Medium<\/strong> coverage can cover freckles, discolorations, blotchiness, and red marks left by pimples. Products with medium coverage have 10-15 percent pigment.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Full<\/strong> coverage is very opaque, and used to cover birthmarks, vitiligo, hyperpigmentation and scars. It is sometimes referred to as \u201ccorrective\u201d or \u201ccamouflage\u201d make-up. Products with full or high coverage contain over 15% pigment.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The pigments used are Titanium Dioxide in the Anatase or Rutile crystal form (occasionally Zinc Oxide) combined with various combinations of black, umber, or russet iron oxides, depending on the desired shade. The amount of coverage is mostly determined by the amount of Titanium Dioxide in the formulation. The pigments are usually dispersed in the oil phase using a roto stator mill and an oil soluble dispersing agent prior to the water phase addition.<\/p>\n<h3>Water-based foundations<\/h3>\n<p>Water-based foundations, which are the most popular form, first appeared on the market as stabilized oil in water emulsions after the end of World War II. The vast majority of current marketed forms are water in oil\/silicone-based formulations.<\/p>\n<p>The technology to make these formulations has dramatically improved in the last 20 years, enabled by the development of superior water in oil polymeric emulsifiers, emollients, and pigment coating technology. These developments have significantly enhanced performance while making it easier to stabilize foundation formulation.<\/p>\n<p>Water in oil\/silicone emulsions apply more evenly and feel better on skin because the continuous oil phase of the emulsion is in contact with skin, which reduces the dry feel of the pigments. Improved pigment coating technology also has led to improved color development and further improved skin feel.<\/p>\n<p>Many water in oil foundations also are beginning to make SPF and broad spectrum UVA protection claims. These require the use of a chemical UVB absorber or micronized Titanium Dioxide combined with micronized Zinc Oxide, since Avobenzone cannot be used with metal oxides in the US. The normal SPF ranges from 15 to 30, with 30 trending to be the new norm.<\/p>\n<p>Typical water in oil\/silicone emulsions are comprised of:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Water (40-60 percent), depending on coverage<\/li>\n<li>Humectant (1-10 percent): Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, or Glycerin<\/li>\n<li>Emulsifier (2-5 percent):\n<ul>\n<li>Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone<\/li>\n<li>PEG 10 Dimethicone<\/li>\n<li>PEG\/PPG-18\/18 Dimethicone<\/li>\n<li>Cetyl PEG\/PPG-10\/1 Dimethicone<\/li>\n<li>PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate<\/li>\n<li>Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Emollient\/silicones (10-20 percent):\n<ul>\n<li>Cyclopentasiloxane<\/li>\n<li>Dimethicone<\/li>\n<li>Isododecane<\/li>\n<li>Phenyltrimethicone<\/li>\n<li>C12-15 Alcohol Benzoate<\/li>\n<li>Isononyl Isononanoate<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Coverage pigment (3-15 percent): normally Titanium Dioxide, which can be coated<\/li>\n<li>Shade pigments (1-5 percent): usually micronized black, umber, or russet iron oxides, which can also be coated<\/li>\n<li>Effect pigments (0-3 percent): titanated mica, Boron Nitride, Bismuth Oxychloride<\/li>\n<li>Other powders (0-5 percent):\n<ul>\n<li>Polymethylsilsesquioxane<\/li>\n<li>Mica<\/li>\n<li>Talc<\/li>\n<li>Silica<\/li>\n<li>Nylon<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Emulsion stabilizers (.5-2 percent):\n<ul>\n<li>Disteardimonium Hectorite<\/li>\n<li>Polyethylene<\/li>\n<li>fumed Silica<\/li>\n<li>Silica Silylate<\/li>\n<li>Sodium Chloride<\/li>\n<li>Magnesium Sulfate<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Preservatives\/potentiators (1-3 percent):\n<ul>\n<li>Phenoxyethanol<\/li>\n<li>Benzyl alcohol<\/li>\n<li>Caprylyl Glycol<\/li>\n<li>Ethylhexyl Glycerin<\/li>\n<li>Hexanediol<\/li>\n<li>Disodium EDTA<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Dispersing agent (.5-1 percent): Polyhydroxystearic acid, Polyglyceryl 6 Polyricinoleate. Using coated pigments can reduce the need for dispersing agents.<\/li>\n<li>Chelating agents (.05-.1 percent) can improve preservation: Disodium EDTA<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Loose foundation powders are normally applied with a brush or pad and are comprised of:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Filler (60-80 percent): mica, talc, corn starch<\/li>\n<li>Feel modifying powders (0-5 percent): Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Nylon, silica<\/li>\n<li>Emollients (0-5 percent)<\/li>\n<li>Effect pigments (0-5 percent): titanated mica, Boron Nitride, Bismuth Oxychloride<\/li>\n<li>Iron oxides (2-5 percent)<\/li>\n<li>Coverage pigment (3-15 percent): level varies depending on desired coverage<\/li>\n<li>Preservative (.5 percent)- Caprylyl Glycol<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Pressed powder formulations are very similar to loose powders, except they use emollients and Zinc or Magnesium fatty acid salts as binders.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Further reading<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7130\/pcc-touch-color-historical-contemporary-lipstick-formulation?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A Touch of Color: Historical and Contemporary Lipstick Formulation<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/6253\/pcc-shampoo-formulations-through-the-years?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Then and Now: Shampoo Formulations through the Years<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/5828\/pcc-water-important-unusual-personalcare-ingredient?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Water: An Important, Unusual, Personal Care Ingredient<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Colour Me Happy: How to Colour Match Cosmetics<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><strong>References<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ol>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Foundation_(cosmetics)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Wikipedia: Foundation<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The purpose of cosmetic foundations is to cover up skin imperfections and provide a natural, even appearance to skin. Foundation formulation helps achieve those goals. Foundation history: From Ancient Greece to Modern Day The history of foundation use can be &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7389\/pcc-contemporary-foundation-formulations\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":7390,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[219],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-7389","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"tag-category-overview","9":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Foundation formulation: Types, coverage, and materials | Prospector<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Foundation cosmetics help improve skin appearance. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...\",\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/author\\\/george-deckner\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Foundation formulation: Types, coverage, and materials | Prospector","description":"Foundation cosmetics help improve skin appearance. Learn the different types, coverage, and common materials used in foundation formulation.","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7389\/pcc-contemporary-foundation-formulations\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"Formulating foundation cosmetics","og_description":"Foundation cosmetics help improve skin appearance. 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Learn the different types, coverage, and common materials used in foundation formulation in the Prospector Knowledge Center."},{"@type":"BreadcrumbList","@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7389\/pcc-contemporary-foundation-formulations\/#breadcrumb","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Home","item":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/"},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"name":"From the Bottom Up: Contemporary Foundation Formulations"}]},{"@type":"WebSite","@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/#website","url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/","name":"Prospector Knowledge Center","description":"Welcome to the blog for UL Prospector, the most comprehensive raw material search engine for product developers.","potentialAction":[{"@type":"SearchAction","target":{"@type":"EntryPoint","urlTemplate":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/?s={search_term_string}"},"query-input":{"@type":"PropertyValueSpecification","valueRequired":true,"valueName":"search_term_string"}}],"inLanguage":"en-US"},{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/#\/schema\/person\/4e8c804f4d62b747a0827fe8a3456717","name":"George Deckner","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpgf40b8891938b807510ab3bd42403f908","url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpg","caption":"George Deckner"},"description":"George Deckner brings over 40 years of experience as a formulating chemist to his role as a personal care and cosmetics industry expert at Prospector. His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...","sameAs":["https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com"],"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/author\/george-deckner\/"}]}},"authors":[{"term_id":1251,"user_id":6,"is_guest":0,"slug":"george-deckner","display_name":"George Deckner","avatar_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpg","0":null,"1":"","2":"","3":"","4":"","5":"","6":"","7":"","8":""}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7389","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7389"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7389\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7390"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7389"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7389"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7389"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=7389"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}