{"id":7463,"date":"2017-11-17T08:00:43","date_gmt":"2017-11-17T14:00:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=7463"},"modified":"2022-04-18T08:02:49","modified_gmt":"2022-04-18T14:02:49","slug":"pcc-lashing-contemporary-mascara-formulation","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7463\/pcc-lashing-contemporary-mascara-formulation\/","title":{"rendered":"Lashing Out: Contemporary Mascara Formulations"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"Mascaras are used to thicken, lengthen, color, curl, and provide volume to eyelashes which helps accentuate the appearance of eyes. Currently marketed mascaras include water-resistant, waterproof, and volumizing types, formulated as oil in water, water in oil, and anhydrous formulations.<\/p>\n

Waterproof formulations normally are water in oil or anhydrous formulations which require an oil-based cleanser for removal. They also tend to dry very slowly, making them prone to smudging until the film is dry to the touch.<\/p>\n

By far the most common type of mascara formulation currently sold is a lamellar gel network (LGN) based oil in water emulsion, stabilized using soluble polymers. These formulations are quite versatile and can provide good application, functional performance, wear\/wash resistance, and rapid drying.<\/p>\n

Typically, these compositions are comprised of:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Material type and quantity<\/strong><\/td>\nIngredients<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Water as a carrier<\/td>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Volatile solvents<\/p>\n

(0-10 percent)<\/td>\n

Ethanol<\/p>\n

Isododecane<\/p>\n

Cyclopentasiloxane<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

LGN emulsifiers<\/p>\n

(4-8 percent)<\/p>\n

 <\/td>\n

Palmitic, Stearic, Isostearic, or Oleic acid neutralized using Triethanolamine, Tromethamine or Aminomethyl Propanediol<\/p>\n

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate<\/p>\n

Steareth 20\/21<\/p>\n

Ceteareth 20<\/p>\n

Glyceryl Stearate\/Behenate<\/p>\n

Cetyl alcohol<\/p>\n

Myristyl alcohol<\/p>\n

Stearyl alcohol<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

Waxes<\/p>\n

(3-8 percent)<\/p>\n

 <\/td>\n

Carnauba<\/p>\n

Synthetic Wax<\/p>\n

Beeswax<\/p>\n

Polyethylene<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

Pigment<\/p>\n

(5-10 percent)<\/p>\n

 <\/td>\n

black<\/p>\n

russet<\/p>\n

umber<\/p>\n

iron oxides<\/p>\n

carbon black<\/p>\n

some coated versions are also used<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

Film formers\/waterproofing polymers (1-5 percent solids)<\/p>\n

 <\/td>\n

Acacia Senegal Gum<\/p>\n

Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer<\/p>\n

Acrylates Copolymer<\/p>\n

Acrylates\/Styrene\/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer<\/p>\n

PVP<\/p>\n

VP\/Eicosene Copolymer<\/p>\n

Ethylenediamine\/Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer<\/p>\n

Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer<\/p>\n

Polyethylene<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

Humectants<\/p>\n

(1-5 percent)<\/td>\n

Propanediol<\/p>\n

Butylene Glycol<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

Preservatives\/Potentiators<\/p>\n

(.5-1.5 percent)<\/p>\n

 <\/td>\n

Phenoxyethanol<\/p>\n

Caprylyl Glycol<\/p>\n

Hexanediol<\/p>\n

Pentylene Glycol<\/p>\n

Ethylhexylglycerin<\/p>\n

Disodium\/Trisodium EDTA<\/p>\n

Sodium Dehydroacetic acid<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

Dispersing agents<\/p>\n

(0-1 percent)<\/td>\n

Lecithin<\/p>\n

Sodium Polymethacrylate<\/p>\n

Sodium Polyacrylate<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

Emulsion stabilizers<\/p>\n

(.2-1 percent)<\/td>\n

Xanthan gum<\/p>\n

Hydroxyethylcellulose<\/p>\n

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n

Lash lengthening fibers\/volumizing powders<\/p>\n

(0-3 percent)<\/td>\n

Nylon 6<\/p>\n

Rayon<\/p>\n

 <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

 <\/p>\n

Mascara emulsifiers<\/strong><\/h3>\n

The most common emulsifying systems are fatty acid soap-based systems using Palmitic, Stearic, Isostearic or Oleic acid. These types of formulations have been popular for over 60 years.<\/p>\n

Fatty acid soaps act as the high hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) LGN emulsifiers to help swell commonly used low HLB emulsifiers such as:<\/p>\n