{"id":7914,"date":"2018-03-23T08:00:52","date_gmt":"2018-03-23T14:00:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=7914"},"modified":"2022-06-15T06:14:02","modified_gmt":"2022-06-15T12:14:02","slug":"pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7914\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\/","title":{"rendered":"Formulating Superior Metal-Oxide-Based Sunscreens"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_7915\" class=\"thumbnail wp-caption alignright\" style=\"width: 600px\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-7915 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2018\/03\/pcc-sunscreen-boy-600x400.jpg\" alt=\"Boy wearing sunscreen - learn about formulating sunscreens with metal oxides in the Prospector Knowledge Center.\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/pcc-sunscreen-boy-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/pcc-sunscreen-boy-600x400-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption class=\"caption wp-caption-text\">Photo credit: <a href=\"https:\/\/visualhunt.com\/author\/65ac43\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the half-blood prince<\/a> on <a href=\"https:\/\/visualhunt.com\/re\/7e8db8\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Visualhunt.com<\/a> \/ <a href=\"http:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nd\/2.0\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> CC BY-ND<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Metal oxide-based sunscreen formulations have become very popular in recent years as alternatives to \u201cchemical\u201d sunscreens and are globally approved as sunscreens. Micronized Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide and chemical-based sunscreens all work in the similar manner by absorbing UV radiation, typically with Titanium Dioxide acting as the UVB absorber and Zinc Oxide as the UVA absorber. Read on to learn more about formulating sunscreens with metal oxides.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Looking for sunscreen agents for your formulation?<\/h3>\n<p>A quick search in Prospector\u00ae reveals more than 1,300 products that can be widely used in sunscreen products. Find technical data, request samples, and more today!<\/p>\n<h3><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/Product\/search?k=Sunscreen+Agents&amp;sug=1&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Click here to search sunscreen agents<\/a><\/h3>\n<hr \/>\n<p>Using only Titanium Dioxide, it is difficult to achieve a critical wavelength of 370 nm and high UVA protection factors without excessive skin whitening. Using only Zinc Oxide as an active results in needing to use significantly high amounts unless combined with Titanium Dioxide to achieve the desired SPF.<\/p>\n<p>Chemical sunscreens like Octinoxate are also used with Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide to formulate beauty\/blemish balm (BB) creams and pigmented products with SPF. This is because the US sunscreen monograph doesn\u2019t permit the use of Avobenzone with metal oxides due to chemical reactivity.<\/p>\n<h3>Advantages of using micronized metal oxides in sunscreens<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Better positioned as \u201cnatural\u201d<\/li>\n<li>Globally approved<\/li>\n<li>Less irritating and penetrating than chemical sunscreens<\/li>\n<li>Often positioned for babies and sensitive skin<\/li>\n<li>More SPF efficient than chemical sunscreens (~3 versus ~2 SPF units\/1% sunscreen)<\/li>\n<li>Very efficient at boosting SPF when combined with chemical sunscreens.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Disadvantages of using micronized metal oxides in sunscreens<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Formulations are very process sensitive<\/li>\n<li>SPF can decrease over time due to agglomeration of metal oxide particles. Need to confirm SPF on heat-aged and freeze\/thaw samples. The problem is usually caused by using powdered metal oxides that haven\u2019t been properly dispersed into the formulation.<\/li>\n<li>High levels of metal oxides can cause a dry skin feel and whitening<\/li>\n<li>Zinc Oxide formulations need to be at a pH&gt;7 to avoid solubilization of the Zinc Oxide in the water phase<\/li>\n<li>Need to use coated Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide to reduce photo\/chemical reactivity and improve skin feel<\/li>\n<li>Nano PR issues in Europe: Particles in formulations &lt; 100nm are considered to be nano and need to be labeled as such. Since the aggregate particle size in formulations is always over 100 nm, technically nanoparticles don\u2019t exist.<\/li>\n<li>Cannot be used in the US with Avobenzone<\/li>\n<li>Difficult to formulate facial day wear SPF products with good skin feel using more than 3% metal oxide<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Metal oxide particle size<\/h3>\n<p>The most important property of metal oxides is their particle size. In formulations, metal oxide particles never exist as primary particles or their manufactured particle size but as clusters called aggregates and agglomerates.<\/p>\n<p>An <strong>aggregate<\/strong> consists of primary particles fused together and can\u2019t be reduced without using very high energy ball milling. The typical <strong>agglomerate<\/strong> contains clusters of aggregate particles held together by weak forces which can be reduced with roto stator mills and the use of good dispersing agents.<\/p>\n<p>The primary particle size will normally determine the UV-absorbing and skin-whitening properties since it correlates with the aggregate size. Research performed by Kobo Products suggests:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The optimum primary particle size for Titanium Dioxide UVB absorption with minimal skin whitening is 10-15 nm or an aggregate size of 110-130 nm.<\/li>\n<li>For maximum UVA absorption, the primary particle should be 35-60 nm or an aggregate size of 150-180 nm.<\/li>\n<li>For Zinc Oxide, the maximum UVA absorption is achieved using a primary particle of 20-60 nm or an aggregate size of 160-200 nm (1).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Micronized metal oxides need to be coated to reduce their chemical reactivity, especially for Titanium Dioxide. Uncoated Titanium Dioxide can form highly reactive free radicals when exposed to UV and can react with formulation ingredients causing discoloration and off odors. The coatings also improve the dispersibility of metal oxides in the water or oil phase of emulsions and improve wash resistance (for hydrophobic coatings).<\/p>\n<p>The best coatings for Zinc Oxide are Silica and Triethoxycaprylylsilane and for Titanium Dioxide Silica, Alumina, with or without Dimethicone. However, there are numerous marketed Zinc Oxide formulations that use uncoated Zinc Oxide.<\/p>\n<p>SPF boosters can be useful to significantly increase the SPF efficiency of metal oxides and primarily work by increasing UV absorption or increasing UV light scattering. All the top-performing marketed metal oxide-based sunscreens use SPF boosting technology (based on SPF efficiency). SPF boosters include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>SunSpheres\u2122<\/strong> (Styrene\/Acrylates copolymer-Dow Chemical, 90% active powder) are hollow 350 nm particles that can scatter UV. Can increase SPF by up to 68%.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Hallbrite<sup>\u00ae<\/sup> BHB<\/strong> (Butyloctyl Salicylate-Hallstar) can increase UVB absorption<\/li>\n<li><strong>SolaStay<sup>\u00ae<\/sup> S1<\/strong> (Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene-Hallstar) can boost the UVA protection factor by up to 96%<\/li>\n<li><strong>Synoxyl<sup>\u00ae<\/sup> HSS<\/strong> (Triethoxybenzylidene Pentanedione-Sytheon) has been shown to boost Zinc Oxide SPF by up to 57 percent<\/li>\n<li><strong>SunBoost ATB\u2122<\/strong> (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (And) Tocopheryl Acetate (And) Bisabolol-Kobo Products) may also work as a cosmetic soothing agent<\/li>\n<li><strong>Caprylyl Glycol<\/strong> as a preservative<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Recommended metal oxides<\/h3>\n<p>Supplier-made dispersions are preferred. If you make your own dispersions, they should be made as a separate premix that is added to the finished formulation using powdered metal oxides, dispersing agents, and high shear processing.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>TX-85AQ<\/strong> (TiO2, Silica-Sunjin, 30nm primary particle)<\/li>\n<li><strong>MT-100SA<\/strong> (Titanium Dioxide, Silica, Alumina-Tayca, 15 nm primary particle)<\/li>\n<li><strong>HBP45TEL<\/strong> (Butyloctyl Salicylate, Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Silica, Stearic Acid, Polyhydroxystearic Acid-Kobo Products,39-43% active, non nano)<\/li>\n<li><strong>Solaveil\u2122 CT-100<\/strong> (Titanium Dioxide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearic Acid, Alumina-Croda 47% active)<\/li>\n<li><strong>Zano<sup>\u00ae<\/sup> M Plus<\/strong> (Zinc Oxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane-EverZinc\/Ultra Chemical, optimized for UVA)<\/li>\n<li><strong>ZinClear<sup>\u00ae<\/sup> XP<\/strong> (Zinc Oxide\u2013Antaria)<\/li>\n<li><strong>ZinClear<sup>\u00ae<\/sup> XP65COCO<\/strong> (Zinc Oxide (and) Coco-Caprylate\/Caprate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (and) Isostearic Acid, 65% active, non nano-Antaria)<\/li>\n<li><strong>HBTN65HP1<\/strong> (Zinc Oxide, Butyloctyl Salicylate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane-60.5-63.5% active-Kobo products)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=metal+oxides&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Click to view all metal oxide products in Prospector<\/a>.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Suggested oil-soluble dispersing agents<\/strong> include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Polyhydroxystearic acid<\/li>\n<li>Polyricinoleic acid<\/li>\n<li>Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate<\/li>\n<li>Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Further reading:<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/3434\/pcc-spf-boosting-technologies?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">SPF Boosting Technologies<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/2507\/pcc-developing-superior-sun-care-formulations?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Developing Superior Sun Care Formulations<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/6913\/pcc-eu-spf-regulations-historical-review-sunscreen-product-testing?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">EU SPF Regulations: A Historical Review of Sunscreen Product Testing<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/5085\/pcc-formulating-emulsifier-free-sunscreen?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Formulating an Emulsifier-Free Sunscreen<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>References<\/h3>\n<ol>\n<li>Borges I., Formulating High SPF Products with Inorganic UV Filters. In-Cosmetics Brazil September, 2014.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Metal oxide-based sunscreen formulations have become very popular in recent years as alternatives to \u201cchemical\u201d sunscreens and are globally approved as sunscreens. Micronized Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide and chemical-based sunscreens all work in the similar manner by absorbing UV radiation, &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7914\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":7915,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[219],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-7914","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"tag-category-overview","9":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Formulating sunscreens with metal oxides | Prospector<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Read about the advantages and disadvantages of formulating sunscreens using micronized metal oxides, the primary particle size, and material recommendations.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7914\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Formulating sunscreens with metal oxides | Prospector\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Read about the advantages and disadvantages of formulating sunscreens using micronized metal oxides, the primary particle size, and material recommendations.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7914\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Prospector Knowledge Center\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2018-03-23T14:00:52+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2022-06-15T12:14:02+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/pcc-sunscreen-boy-OG.png\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1200\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"628\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/png\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"George Deckner\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:image\" content=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2018\/03\/pcc-sunscreen-boy-600x400-150x150.jpg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"George Deckner\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/7914\\\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/7914\\\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"George Deckner\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/4e8c804f4d62b747a0827fe8a3456717\"},\"headline\":\"Formulating Superior Metal-Oxide-Based Sunscreens\",\"datePublished\":\"2018-03-23T14:00:52+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2022-06-15T12:14:02+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/7914\\\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1030,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/7914\\\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/03\\\/pcc-sunscreen-boy-600x400.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"Category Overview\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Personal Care &amp; 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...\",\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/author\\\/george-deckner\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Formulating sunscreens with metal oxides | Prospector","description":"Read about the advantages and disadvantages of formulating sunscreens using micronized metal oxides, the primary particle size, and material recommendations.","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7914\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"Formulating sunscreens with metal oxides | Prospector","og_description":"Read about the advantages and disadvantages of formulating sunscreens using micronized metal oxides, the primary particle size, and material recommendations.","og_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7914\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\/","og_site_name":"Prospector Knowledge Center","article_published_time":"2018-03-23T14:00:52+00:00","article_modified_time":"2022-06-15T12:14:02+00:00","og_image":[{"width":1200,"height":628,"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/pcc-sunscreen-boy-OG.png","type":"image\/png"}],"author":"George Deckner","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_image":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2018\/03\/pcc-sunscreen-boy-600x400-150x150.jpg","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"George Deckner","Est. reading time":"5 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7914\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7914\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\/"},"author":{"name":"George Deckner","@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/#\/schema\/person\/4e8c804f4d62b747a0827fe8a3456717"},"headline":"Formulating Superior Metal-Oxide-Based Sunscreens","datePublished":"2018-03-23T14:00:52+00:00","dateModified":"2022-06-15T12:14:02+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7914\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\/"},"wordCount":1030,"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7914\/pcc-formulating-metal-oxide-based-sunscreens\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/pcc-sunscreen-boy-600x400.jpg","keywords":["Category Overview"],"articleSection":["Personal Care &amp; 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. 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