{"id":8522,"date":"2018-07-20T08:00:07","date_gmt":"2018-07-20T14:00:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=8522"},"modified":"2018-07-27T09:24:01","modified_gmt":"2018-07-27T15:24:01","slug":"pcc-waterproof-enhancing-technologies","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8522\/pcc-waterproof-enhancing-technologies\/","title":{"rendered":"Sunny Days Ahead for Waterproof Enhancing Technologies"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-8523\" src=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2018\/07\/boy-sun-ocean-925319_600x400.jpg\" alt=\"Boy skipping on beach - find tips on using waterproof enhancing technologies in sunscreen formulations in the Prospector Knowledge Center.\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/boy-sun-ocean-925319_600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/boy-sun-ocean-925319_600x400-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/>Waterproof enhancing technologies (WET) are critical ingredients used to increase the wash, sweat, migration, transfer, sand, and rub resistance of sunscreen formulations. Often these technologies can also be used to boost SPF and reduce the skin penetration of chemical sunscreens. WET are normally used at a 1-3% active level in formulations depending on the type of application and formulation.<\/p>\n<p>The performance of WET can be highly variable depending on the type of formulation and its inherent wash resistance. The goal of the formulator should always be to employ the most efficient technology to keep the use level to a minimum since WET can have a negative impact on skin feel.<\/p>\n<p>Balancing performance with skin feel tradeoffs is key. The use of high hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) emulsifiers, highly hydrophilic ingredients like polyols, and water-soluble sunscreens like Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid should be kept at a minimum for optimal results. It is even possible to formulate waterproof SPF formulations through good formulation design without using any technology.<\/p>\n<p>The main chemical classes used in WET include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>oil and water-soluble film-forming polymers<\/li>\n<li>latex-based water-dispersible polymers<\/li>\n<li>waxes\/resins<\/li>\n<li>emollients<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The types of technologies used in the marketplace suggest that they function by forming highly hydrophobic films on skin in which the sunscreens are either soluble or dispersed uniformly within the residual film on skin. The type of technology used in products is very dependent on the type of formulation.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Looking for waterproof materials?<\/h3>\n<p>UL Prospector\u00ae offers listings for waterproof materials, from emulsifiers to UV absorbers and more. Find technical data, request samples, and contact global suppliers &#8211; all right within Prospector.<\/p>\n<h3><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Register today for access!<\/a><\/h3>\n<hr \/>\n<p>The most common recreational sunscreens currently sold are aerosol\/non-aerosol anhydrous sprays which use <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Acrylates%2fOctylacrylamide+Copolymer&amp;sug=1&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Acrylates\/Octylacrylamide Copolymer<\/a> as the main waterproofing polymer. Other common technologies used include <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=VA%2fButyl+Maleate%2fIsobornyl+Acrylate+Copolymer&amp;sug=1&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">VA\/Butyl Maleate\/Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=Styrene%2fAcrylates+Copolymer&amp;sug=1&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Styrene Acrylates Copolymer<\/a>. \u201cSport\u201d type spray formulations positioned for more demanding physical activity frequently use higher levels of actives and combinations.<\/p>\n<p>The most common emulsion-based SPF products are oil in water dispersions using Styrene\/Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates\/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, and VP\/Eicosene Copolymer. Frequently better results can be achieved using combinations of WET. Good results can be achieved with most chemical classes of WET when used in an optimized formulation.<\/p>\n<p>The historical WET benchmark is <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?incival=VP%2fEicosene+Copolymer&amp;sug=1&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">VP\/Eicosene Copolymer<\/a>, which has been used for over 30 years. Results, however, can be highly variable and formulations can feel tacky when using 2% or higher concentrations.<\/p>\n<h3>In vivo performance testing<\/h3>\n<p>In order to meet the FDA Sunscreen Monograph, sunscreen products making water resistance claims must maintain their claimed SPF for 2\/20 minute sessions of moderate water activity to be labeled water resistant and 4\/20 sessions to be labeled very water resistant<sup>1<\/sup>. Good products can maintain 80-100 percent of their static SPF in a very water-resistant test. Normally very water-resistant products also have good sweat resistance.<\/p>\n<h3>In vitro performance testing<\/h3>\n<p>The static in vitro SPF is determined in triplicate using ether Poly(methyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates or a collagen substrate. A positive control is also run that has known in vivo static and water-resistant SPF results. The control should be similar to the type of vehicle used in the developmental formulation.<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Prepare samples in triplicate and place in a glass cylinder filled with tap water at a temperature of 25\u00b0<\/li>\n<li>Use a propeller mixer to stir the water for 80 minutes at a constant RPM.<\/li>\n<li>Remove the samples, allow to air dry, and perform the in vitro SPF. Excellent correlation with in vivo results is normally achieved.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h3>Waterproof sunscreen formulation tips<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Use hydrophobic-coated metal oxides to provide better wash resistance<\/li>\n<li>Develop and use an in vitro waterproof screening method.<\/li>\n<li>Good results can normally be achieved in all types of vehicles; oil in water, water in oil, sticks, oils, and hydroalcoholic formulations. I believe that the best results are obtained in formulations containing volatile solvents like water or Ethanol.<\/li>\n<li>Make sure that your crystalline sunscreens like Avobenzone and Oxybenzone don\u2019t crystalize in product or on skin during use. A good screening test is to place the product oil phase without volatiles or waxes at -15\u00b0C and check for crystals at room temperature.<\/li>\n<li>WET should be evaluated using 2% active. Try to use ingredients that also have an SPF-boosting effect.<\/li>\n<li>Use Potassium Cetyl Phosphate\/Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Cetyl Phosphate neutralized using TEA or Aginine as a primary o\/w emulsifier<\/li>\n<li>Think of combinations to improve SPF, skin feel, and reduce the level of active needed.<\/li>\n<li>Develop surfactant-free, sterically-stabilized oil in water emulsions to improve the inherent wash resistance formulations and reduce the level of WET needed. These dispersions typically use a hydrophobically-modified acrylate polymer (Acrylates\/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) as an emulsifying\/stabilizing agent and low levels of VP\/Eicosene Copolymer to reduce the particle size of the oil droplets. Excellent water-based SPF sprays can be developed using this approach.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>References<\/h3>\n<ol>\n<li>FDA.gov: Code of Federal Regulations Title 21, Capter I, Subchapter D, Part 352: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ecfr.gov\/cgi-bin\/text-idx?SID=8ef0ab474e6f86b5da49386f01561dd5&amp;mc=true&amp;tpl=\/ecfrbrowse\/Title21\/21cfr352_main_02.tpl\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">OTC Sunscreen Drug Products<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Waterproof enhancing technologies (WET) are critical ingredients used to increase the wash, sweat, migration, transfer, sand, and rub resistance of sunscreen formulations. Often these technologies can also be used to boost SPF and reduce the skin penetration of chemical sunscreens. &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8522\/pcc-waterproof-enhancing-technologies\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":8523,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[200,219],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-8522","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"tag-formulation","9":"tag-category-overview","10":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>How to use waterproof enhancing technologies (WET) in sunscreens<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A good sunscreen must be wash, sweat, sand, and rub resistant. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...\",\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/author\\\/george-deckner\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"How to use waterproof enhancing technologies (WET) in sunscreens","description":"A good sunscreen must be wash, sweat, sand, and rub resistant. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...","sameAs":["https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com"],"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/author\/george-deckner\/"}]}},"authors":[{"term_id":1251,"user_id":6,"is_guest":0,"slug":"george-deckner","display_name":"George Deckner","avatar_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpg","0":null,"1":"","2":"","3":"","4":"","5":"","6":"","7":"","8":""}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8522","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8522"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8522\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/8523"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8522"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8522"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8522"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=8522"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}