{"id":8646,"date":"2018-08-17T08:00:28","date_gmt":"2018-08-17T14:00:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=8646"},"modified":"2022-04-18T08:04:30","modified_gmt":"2022-04-18T14:04:30","slug":"pcc-understanding-cosmetic-wax-technology","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8646\/pcc-understanding-cosmetic-wax-technology\/","title":{"rendered":"Wax On, Wax Off: Understanding Cosmetic Wax Technology"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-8648\" src=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2018\/08\/cosmetics-1367782_600x400.png\" alt=\"Selection of cosmetic products - learn about how cosmetic wax is used in personal care formulations in the Prospector Knowledge Center.\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/cosmetics-1367782_600x400.png 600w, https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/cosmetics-1367782_600x400-300x200.png 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/>Waxes are a diverse class of organic compounds that are broadly used in personal care products to modify skin feel, thicken, waterproof, boost SPF, and improve the wash\/rub\/wear resistance of formulations.<\/p>\n<h3>Wax melting points<\/h3>\n<p>Waxes are hydrophobic, solid materials at room temperature and typically have melting points above 40 \u00b0C and are insoluble in water but soluble hot in many cosmetic nonpolar to polar emollients. Upon cooling, the waxes form small crystals that can bind oil and provide structure.<\/p>\n<p>High melting point waxes are used as thickening agents and to improve the wear properties of formulations. Low melting point waxes are used mostly as feel modifiers and don\u2019t contribute much to structure. These include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Lanolin<\/li>\n<li>Petrolatum<\/li>\n<li>Shea butter<\/li>\n<li>Cocoa butter<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Need a wax material for your next formulation?<\/h3>\n<p>UL Prospector has thousands of listings for wax materials from global suppliers. Find technical data, request samples and pricing, and contact suppliers &#8211; all right within Prospector.<\/p>\n<h3><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=wax&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Search wax ingredients now<\/a><\/h3>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Chemical classes of waxes<\/h3>\n<p>The main chemical classes of waxes include hydrocarbons, esters, triglycerides, alcohols, and fatty acids. Many of these classes can additionally be polymeric and function as film formers.<\/p>\n<p>Synthetic and naturally-produced waxes are broadly used with natural-based materials growing rapidly in popularity. Waxes can be further broken down to petroleum and plant-derived materials. Some of the most widely used waxes arepetroleum-derived, such as:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=paraffin&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Paraffin<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=ozokerite&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ozokerite<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=Polyethylene&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Polyethylene<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=synthetic+wax&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Synthetic<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/search?k=Microcrystalline&amp;st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Microcrystalline<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Most natural waxes are saturated triglycerides or esters with alkyl chain lengths of C12-C30. The triglyceride waxes are normally derived by fractionating vegetable oils or by hydrogenating vegetable oil, which converts the unsaturated to saturated alkyl chains. The most popular natural based waxes include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Cetyl, Stearyl\/Behenyl alcohols<\/li>\n<li>Stearic acid<\/li>\n<li>Carnauba<\/li>\n<li>Candelilla<\/li>\n<li>Beeswax<\/li>\n<li>Hydrogenated vegetable oils<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Waxes as structuring\/thickening agents<\/h3>\n<p>By far the most important function of waxes is to thicken anhydrous and oil in water-based lamellar crystalline gel network-based formulations. Waxes also are key ingredients that provide stability and good in use properties to stick\/hot poured colored cosmetics like lipsticks, blushers, eyeshadows, and foundations.<\/p>\n<p>The largest commercial application of anhydrous wax based formulations are antiperspirant sticks which normally consist of Cyclomethicone and antiperspirant actives gelled using Stearyl alcohol.<\/p>\n<p>The best anhydrous thickening system is normally the one that is the most efficient and uses blends of crystalline and amorphous waxes to provide the optimum crystal structure and stability. Crystalline waxes provide good strength while amorphous waxes provide good oil binding properties.<\/p>\n<p>Using too much crystalline wax can sometimes result in brittle sticks that crack. Adding small amounts of highly branched waxes can be useful to reduce the particle size of crystals during cooling, which promotes good oil binding while improving flexibility.<\/p>\n<p>The melting point of the formulation should be above 55\u00b0C to provide good shelf stability.The waxes need to have good compatibility with the liquid emollients used, or the emollient can bleed out of the structure. This is referred to as \u201csweating\u201d by formulators.<\/p>\n<h3>Formulating sticks with waxes<\/h3>\n<p>The challenge in formulating sticks is to have good in use properties and mold release properties while maintaining stability. Making the stick too hard with high melting point waxes can provide good heat stability but often results in poor application or payoff on skin.<\/p>\n<p>Using low levels of high meting point Synthetic wax or Polyethylene can increase the melting point of other waxes without significantly impacting the payoff on skin.<\/p>\n<p>Another important consideration in formulating moldable sticks is to utilize waxes that provide the correct amount of shrinkage on cooling, otherwise mold release is negatively impacted. The most commonly used waxes in molded stick products include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Ozokerite<\/li>\n<li>Carnauba<\/li>\n<li>Candelilla<\/li>\n<li>Beeswax<\/li>\n<li>Microcrystalline<\/li>\n<li>Polyethylene<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Combinations I like include Behenyl\/Carnauba\/Candelilla (all-natural option) and Microcrystalline\/Polyethylene.<\/p>\n<p>Waxes used to thicken oil in water emulsions are restricted to low hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) ingredients that can associate with high HLB emulsifiers to form lamellar crystalline gel networks that can bind water and thicken the emulsion. Most oil in water emulsions currently sold use these structures to thicken and stabilize the formulation combined with hydrophilic polymers like Carbomers, Acrylate copolymers or Xanthan gum. Common waxes used to form lamellar crystalline gel networks include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Cetyl\/Stearyl\/Behenyl alcohols<\/li>\n<li>Steareth 2<\/li>\n<li>Stearic acid<\/li>\n<li>Glyceryl Stearate<\/li>\n<li>Sorbitan Stearate<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Waxes as waterproofing\/wear-enhancing agents<\/h3>\n<p>Polymeric waxes can be useful as both structuring agents and to provide good waterproof and long wear properties to formulations. Waxes used to improve transfer resistance and wear properties include VP\/Eicosene Copolymer, Polyethylene, and Polyamide 3.<\/p>\n<h3>Waxes as SPF boosters<\/h3>\n<p>SPF-boosting waxes can increase the SPF and wash resistance of emulsion-based formulations. Best in class waxes include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Tricontanyl\/VP copolymer-260 percent boost using 3%<\/li>\n<li>Siliconyl Candelilla-200 percent boost using 1%<\/li>\n<li>C20-40 Alcohols-196 percent boost using 2.5%<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Results can significantly vary depending on the amount used, the type of formulation, and the type of sunscreens used. Another thing to watch out for is that high levels of waxes can have a negative impact on skin feel.<\/p>\n<h3>Further reading:<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8357\/pcc-oil-in-water-emulsifiers\/?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Contemporary Formulation: Oil in Water Emulsifiers<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/330\/pcc-solubilizing-oils-water\/\" data-slimstat=\"5\">Solubilizing Oils into Water<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8522\/pcc-waterproof-enhancing-technologies\/?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Sunny Days Ahead for Waterproof Enhancing Technologies<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/7130\/pcc-touch-color-historical-contemporary-lipstick-formulation\/?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A Touch of Color: Historical and Contemporary Lipstick Formulation<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Waxes are a diverse class of organic compounds that are broadly used in personal care products to modify skin feel, thicken, waterproof, boost SPF, and improve the wash\/rub\/wear resistance of formulations. Wax melting points Waxes are hydrophobic, solid materials at &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8646\/pcc-understanding-cosmetic-wax-technology\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":8648,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[217,275],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-8646","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"tag-formulating-advice","9":"tag-materials","10":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Formulating with cosmetic wax in personal care products<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Waxes are broadly used in personal care formulations to modify skin feel and improve the performance. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...\",\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/author\\\/george-deckner\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Formulating with cosmetic wax in personal care products","description":"Waxes are broadly used in personal care formulations to modify skin feel and improve the performance. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...","sameAs":["https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com"],"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/author\/george-deckner\/"}]}},"authors":[{"term_id":1251,"user_id":6,"is_guest":0,"slug":"george-deckner","display_name":"George Deckner","avatar_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpg","0":null,"1":"","2":"","3":"","4":"","5":"","6":"","7":"","8":""}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8646","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8646"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8646\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/8648"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8646"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8646"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8646"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=8646"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}