{"id":8959,"date":"2018-10-19T08:00:59","date_gmt":"2018-10-19T14:00:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=8959"},"modified":"2022-07-06T13:26:12","modified_gmt":"2022-07-06T19:26:12","slug":"pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8959\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\/","title":{"rendered":"Conditionally Yours: Hair Conditioner Formulations"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>A hair conditioner is a product used to improve the feel, appearance, and manageability of hair. Its main purpose is to reduce hair friction allowing for easier brushing or combing. Other claimed benefits include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>improved shine<\/li>\n<li>softness<\/li>\n<li>reduced frizz and fly aways<\/li>\n<li>anti-static<\/li>\n<li>strengthening\/reduced breakage<\/li>\n<li>a reduction in split-ends<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Working on the next great conditioner?<\/h3>\n<p>Prospector can help with your ingredient research &#8211; find data sheets, and request samples, pricing, and technical advice, all in one place!<\/p>\n<h3><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Create your free account now!<\/a><\/h3>\n<hr \/>\n<p>Conditioners are available in a wide variety of forms including gels, creams as well as thin lotions and sprays. Hair conditioners are usually used after hair has been washed with shampoo. They are applied and worked into the hair and may either be washed out or left in (1).<\/p>\n<p>The perfumer \u00c9douard Pinaud is credited for developing the first modern hair conditioner in the early 1900s which he presented at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris. His product was intended to soften men&#8217;s hair, including beards and mustaches (2).<\/p>\n<h3>Types of conditioners<\/h3>\n<p>The different types of conditioners available include instant conditioners, deep conditioners, and leave in conditioners.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Instant conditioners<\/strong> are the most common type. They are applied shortly after shampooing and are rinsed out.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Deep conditioners<\/strong> are more concentrated and contain similar ingredients found in instant conditioners. Deep conditioners are meant to remain on the hair for at least twenty minutes before rinsing. They are good for treating long hair with rough, dry ends, hair that tangles easily, and hair that has a lot of breakage.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Leave in hair conditioners<\/strong> are applied to shampooed, towel-dried hair, and are meant to remain on hair until the next washing. Leave in conditioners are excellent for restoring hair damage caused by frequent perming, straightening, curling, or dyeing (3,4).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The typical hair conditioner is comprised of:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Deionized water<\/li>\n<li>Humectants (0-2%)<\/li>\n<li>Cationic conditioning agent\/emulsifier (1-4% active)<\/li>\n<li>Fatty alcohols, Glyceryl Stearate (1-7%)<\/li>\n<li>Fragrance (.1-.5%)<\/li>\n<li>Preservative (up to 1% depending on the type of preservative used)<\/li>\n<li>Emollient (0-2%)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The majority of instant, deep, and leave in hair conditioners sold globally are <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/4712\/pcc-lamellar-gel-network-technology-a-primer\/?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">lamellar gel network<\/a> (LGN) based oil in water formulations using a cationic surfactant to swell fatty alcohols. LGNs are combinations of low and high hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) surfactants that can thicken water and shear thin when applied to hair. LGN bilayered structures can easily slide toward each other to provide a slippery, smooth feel to hair during use. The LGN structure is critical for:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Thickening and stabilizing the formulation<\/li>\n<li>Increasing cationic surfactant, fragrance, and emollient deposition<\/li>\n<li>Helping to disperse\/stabilize emollient oils<\/li>\n<li>Provide a wet\/slippery\/smooth feel during application<\/li>\n<li>Provide wet detangling and dry conditioning<\/li>\n<li>Reduced hair friction and static charge.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Factors affecting cationic LGN performance<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Total surfactant Concentration (low plus high HLB surfactant) effects both viscosity and the conditioning properties<\/li>\n<li>Ratio of high HLB to total surfactant has a significant impact on viscosity and the conditioning properties. For optimum conditioning this ratio should be ~30%.<\/li>\n<li>Chain length of low and high HLB surfactants. The best low HLB surfactants are Cetyl, Stearyl, and Behenyl alcohols. The best high HLB cationic surfactants are Stearamidopropylamine (SAPDMA-neutralized), Behenyltrimonium Chloride (BTMAC). Combinations of SAPDMA and BTMAC are also used<\/li>\n<li>The use of electrolytes should be minimized since they can negatively impact viscosity and stability.<\/li>\n<li>Fragrances can significantly reduce viscosity and high temperature stability<\/li>\n<li>The level and type of preservative, especially solvent type (benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2 Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin). These normally significantly reduce viscosity and can impact high temperature stability.<\/li>\n<li>Branched\/unsaturated fatty acids, alcohols can negatively impact viscosity and stability.<\/li>\n<li>Presence of polymers can impact viscosity and stability<\/li>\n<li>LGN based formulations are very processing sensitive. The type of shear, when the shear is applied, the cooling rate, and order of addition of ingredients are all important.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Conditioner formulation trends\/new technology<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Silicone free conditioning\n<ul>\n<li>Quaternium 100 improves the conditioning performance of BTMAC based conditioners<\/li>\n<li>PPG3 Caprylyl Ether<\/li>\n<li>Polyester-11<\/li>\n<li>Natural oils are hot (Argan oil as a conceptual ingredient)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Use of more natural, sustainable ingredients<\/li>\n<li>Conditioners for dyed hair to increase color fastness<\/li>\n<li>Using a conditioner before shampooing can provide better conditioning and hair volume versus post shampooing use.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Marketed instant hair conditioning products<\/h3>\n<p>The top selling products have similar conditioning performance mostly differentiated by packaging, fragrance, and conceptual ingredients.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The top selling products use Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl, and Stearyl alcohol as low HLB surfactants and SAPDMA, BTMAC as high HLB emulsifier\/conditioning agents. Hydrolyzed proteins are also commonly used as conditioning agents.<\/li>\n<li>Emollients used include Amodimethicone, Bis Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Cetyl esters, Avocado oil, Soybean oil, Coconut oil, Argan oil (as a conceptual ingredient)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Amazon top-rated hair conditioners (5 point scale)<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Silk18 Natural Hair Conditioner<\/strong> (4.3\/5, 7582 ratings) &#8211; Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Phytokeratin<\/li>\n<li><strong>Hydrating Argan Oil Hair Mask and Deep Conditioner By Arvazallia for Dry or Damaged Hair<\/strong> (4.4\/5, 4130 ratings) &#8211; Cetearyl Alcohol, Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium Chloride, Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone<\/li>\n<li><strong>ArtNaturals Argan Oil Hair Mask<\/strong> (4.4\/5, 3014 ratings) &#8211; Quaternium-91, Behentrimonium Chloride, Myristyl Myristate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Amodimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>References<\/h3>\n<ol>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Hair_conditioner\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Wikipedia: Hair conditioner<\/a><\/li>\n<li>The History of Conditioner. Prell. Retrieved 2016-01-01.<\/li>\n<li>Detergents &amp; Soaps: <a href=\"http:\/\/www.detergentsandsoaps.com\/conditioners.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Conditioners<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Science-y Hair Blog: <a href=\"http:\/\/science-yhairblog.blogspot.com\/2014\/01\/deep-conditioning-part-i.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Deep Conditioning<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A hair conditioner is a product used to improve the feel, appearance, and manageability of hair. Its main purpose is to reduce hair friction allowing for easier brushing or combing. Other claimed benefits include: improved shine softness reduced frizz and &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8959\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":8962,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[217],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-8959","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"tag-formulating-advice","9":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>What makes an effective hair conditioner formulation?<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Learn the benefits and key ingredients in an effective hair conditioner formulation, plus current trends, in the Prospector Knowledge Center.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8959\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"What makes an effective hair conditioner formulation?\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Learn the benefits and key ingredients in an effective hair conditioner formulation, plus current trends, in the Prospector Knowledge Center.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8959\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Prospector Knowledge Center\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2018-10-19T14:00:59+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2022-07-06T19:26:12+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/hair-2537564_1024x512.png\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1024\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"512\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/png\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"George Deckner\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:image\" content=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2018\/10\/hair-2537564_600x400-150x150.jpg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"George Deckner\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"4 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/8959\\\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/8959\\\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"George Deckner\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/4e8c804f4d62b747a0827fe8a3456717\"},\"headline\":\"Conditionally Yours: Hair Conditioner Formulations\",\"datePublished\":\"2018-10-19T14:00:59+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2022-07-06T19:26:12+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/8959\\\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":859,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/8959\\\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/10\\\/hair-2537564_600x400.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"Formulating Advice\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Personal Care &amp; 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...\",\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/author\\\/george-deckner\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"What makes an effective hair conditioner formulation?","description":"Learn the benefits and key ingredients in an effective hair conditioner formulation, plus current trends, in the Prospector Knowledge Center.","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8959\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"What makes an effective hair conditioner formulation?","og_description":"Learn the benefits and key ingredients in an effective hair conditioner formulation, plus current trends, in the Prospector Knowledge Center.","og_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8959\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\/","og_site_name":"Prospector Knowledge Center","article_published_time":"2018-10-19T14:00:59+00:00","article_modified_time":"2022-07-06T19:26:12+00:00","og_image":[{"width":1024,"height":512,"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/hair-2537564_1024x512.png","type":"image\/png"}],"author":"George Deckner","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_image":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2018\/10\/hair-2537564_600x400-150x150.jpg","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"George Deckner","Est. reading time":"4 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8959\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8959\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\/"},"author":{"name":"George Deckner","@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/#\/schema\/person\/4e8c804f4d62b747a0827fe8a3456717"},"headline":"Conditionally Yours: Hair Conditioner Formulations","datePublished":"2018-10-19T14:00:59+00:00","dateModified":"2022-07-06T19:26:12+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8959\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\/"},"wordCount":859,"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/8959\/pcc-hair-conditioner-formulations\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/hair-2537564_600x400.jpg","keywords":["Formulating Advice"],"articleSection":["Personal Care &amp; 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...","sameAs":["https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com"],"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/author\/george-deckner\/"}]}},"authors":[{"term_id":1251,"user_id":6,"is_guest":0,"slug":"george-deckner","display_name":"George Deckner","avatar_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpg","0":null,"1":"","2":"","3":"","4":"","5":"","6":"","7":"","8":""}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8959","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8959"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8959\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/8962"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8959"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8959"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8959"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=8959"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}