{"id":9229,"date":"2019-02-08T08:00:17","date_gmt":"2019-02-08T14:00:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=9229"},"modified":"2022-05-31T14:19:19","modified_gmt":"2022-05-31T20:19:19","slug":"pcc-hot-cosmetic-ingredients-cannabis-derivatives","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/9229\/pcc-hot-cosmetic-ingredients-cannabis-derivatives\/","title":{"rendered":"Hot Cosmetic Ingredients: Cannabis Derivatives"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-9230\" src=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2019\/02\/hemp-leaf-3661209_600x400.jpg\" alt=\"Hemp leaf against blue sky - find out how hemp and CBD oil impacts skin and personal care formulation in the Prospector Knowledge Center.\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/hemp-leaf-3661209_600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/hemp-leaf-3661209_600x400-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/>Some of the hottest, most talked about ingredients in cosmetics today are cannabis derivatives. Their use has evolved into a major skin care trend with numerous products marketed as oils, balms, creams, lotions, and facial serums. Unfortunately, there is a lot of confusion over cannabis derivatives related to their quality and what they legally can contain.<\/p>\n<p>Cannabis-based products can be categorized as products for cosmetic\/industrial application, or medicinal use and recreational drug use. These include hemp oil (low in Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and cannabidiol (CBD), CBD enriched oil (high in CBD), and marijuana\/cannabis oil (THC enriched oils). THC is the psychoactive fraction of cannabis and CBD is the medicinal, non-psychoactive fraction<\/p>\n<p>The cannabis plant belongs to the Cannabis genus of which there are three species; Indica, Sativa, and Ruderalis. Strains of Cannabis indica, Cannabis sativa, and hybrids of the two (e.g., Blue Dream, Cherry OG, and Kandy Kush) make up the majority grown for recreational drug use. Cannabis ruderalis is a wild species which is naturally low in THC (1,2). There are 483 known compounds in cannabis including at least 65 other cannabinoids. Hemp seed oil used in cosmetics contains very little CBD or THC.<\/p>\n<p>Hemp seed oil is a clear, colorless liquid typically extracted from the seeds of industrial hemp. Industrial hemp Cannabis species that is high in fiber and low in THC. There are two types of industrial hemp, one grown to produce fiber for textiles and industry, and another used to produce hemp seeds for oil production.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Search for hemp and cannabis ingredients<\/h2>\n<p>Prospector can help you research hundreds of materials for your natural formulations. Access technical data sheets and request free samples in just a few clicks.<\/p>\n<h3><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Create your free account today!<\/a><\/h3>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Hemp oil and CBD composition<\/h2>\n<p>Typical hemp seed oil contains &lt;25 ppm of CBD however the flower extract can contain 4-8% CBD. Crude hemp seed oil is a greenish yellow color and is known for its nutty taste. It contains 75% unsaturated oils such as omega-3 and omega-6 in a 3:1 ratio respectively. Hemp oil is one of the few seed oils that contains both omega-6 and omega-3 and it possesses one of the highest concentrations of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) of all naturally occurring oils.<\/p>\n<p>The refined oil has little flavor and has low levels of natural vitamins and antioxidants. Hemp oil is primarily used as an emollient in skin care products and in soaps, and shampoos. Industrially hemp seed oil is used in lubricants, paints, inks, fuel, and plastics (1,3).<\/p>\n<p>CBD is a Cannabinoid first discovered in Cannabis extracts in 1940. CBD is produced from the flowers, leaves, and stalks of the Cannabis sativa plant. CBD accounts for up to 40% of the plant extract but does not contain THC (1). This extract is frequently diluted with hemp seed oil, olive oil, or other types of carrier oils. CBD enriched oil products are non-psychoactive and typically contain ~20% CBD (5).<\/p>\n<h2>How CBD impacts skin<\/h2>\n<p>In 2012, Israeli scientists identified more than 1,200 genes affected by CBD: 600 gene transcripts were upregulated by CBD and 524 were downregulated. CBD has also been shown to regulate the expression of 491 genes, 165 in skin (4,18).<\/p>\n<p>CBD has been shown to activate both the cannabinoid and PPAR Gamma receptor in skin, which is probably responsible for its claimed skin benefits. Reported skin benefits include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>improved moisturization<\/li>\n<li>improved skin barrier<\/li>\n<li>skin soothing\/anti-inflammatory<\/li>\n<li>antipruritic<\/li>\n<li>Acne\/oil control<\/li>\n<li>treating Psoriasis\/Atopic Dermatitis (7, 14, 17,19)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Hemp regulation<\/h2>\n<p>Hemp oil is regulated as a cosmetic ingredient in most countries. Numerous cosmetic products on the market claim to contain CBD but generally list Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil on the label, which may or may not contain any CBD.<\/p>\n<p>Canada and the European Union strictly regulate the THC levels of industrial hemp requiring it to be &lt; 0.3% compared to levels of between 3 to 30% found in marijuana.<\/p>\n<p>To produce industrial hemp in the United States, growers must obtain a permit from the Drug Enforcement Agency (DEA). In the US, 33 states have approved hemp cultivation for industrial use. The seeds normally contain around 30% oil but other plant parts are sometimes be used which can increase the CBD content.<\/p>\n<p>CBD enhanced hemp oil is not federally legal, but it is currently being sold on the internet. CBD enhanced oil is legal in states that allow recreational and medicinal marijuana usage. Some states specifically only allow CBD oil use. Many states that allow medicinal CBD oil have restrictions that require the oil to have little to no THC.<\/p>\n<p>Recently Congress passed The Hemp Farming Act of 2018 that would legalize the growth of hemp. The new bill defines industrial hemp as the plant Cannabis sativa L. and all derivatives, extracts, cannabinoids, isomers, acids, salts and salts of isomers&#8221; containing less than 0.3% THC. This in theory would allow for higher levels of CBD in hemp oil and cosmetic products.<\/p>\n<p>Hemp Oil Suppliers include; Hallstar, Jedwards, Caribbean Natural Products Inc., Premier Specialties, International Cosmetic Science Centre A\/S, Morre-Tec, Biocosmethic, and Making Cosmetics Inc.<\/p>\n<h3>References<\/h3>\n<ol>\n<li>Wikipedia: <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Hemp_oil\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Hemp oil<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Wikipedia: <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Cannabis_(drug)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Cannabis (drug)<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Wikipedia: <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Cannabidiol\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Cannabidiol<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Chiropractic Economics: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.chiroeco.com\/science-behind-cbd-topicals\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">The science behind the rise of CBD topicals<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Genemarkers CBD poster, technology showcase, Society of Cosmetic Chemists meeting, December 11,12 2018<\/li>\n<li>Honest Marijuana: <a href=\"https:\/\/honestmarijuana.com\/hemp-oil-vs-cbd-oil\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Hemp Oil vs CBD oil: What&#8217;s the difference?<\/a><\/li>\n<li>National Institutes of Health: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pubmed\/17157480\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Cannabinoids inhibit human keratinocyte proliferation through a non-CB1\/CB2 mechanism and have a potential therapeutic value in the treatment of psoriasis<\/a><\/li>\n<li>National Institutes of Health: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pubmed\/25061872\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">CBD exerts sebostatic and antiinflammatory effects on human sebocytes<\/a><\/li>\n<li>National Institutes of Health: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pubmed\/23869687\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Epigenetic control of skin differentiation genes by phytocannabinoids<\/a><\/li>\n<li>National Institutes of Health: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pubmed\/23638377\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">A novel control of human keratin expression: cannabinoid receptor l-mediated signaling down-regulates the expression of keratins K6 and K16 in human keratinocvtes in vitro and in situ<\/a><\/li>\n<li>National Institutes of Health: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pubmed\/21248768\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Endocannabinoids modulate human epidermal keratinocvte proliferation and survival via the sequential engagement of cannabinoid receptor-i and transient receptor potential vanilloid-I<\/a><\/li>\n<li>National Institutes of Health: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pubmed\/23585676\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Cannabinoid l receptors in keratinocvtes modulate proinflammatorv chemokine secretion andattenuate contact allergic inflammation<\/a><\/li>\n<li>National Institutes of Health: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pubmed\/17556587\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Attenuation of allergic contact dermatitis through the endocannabinoid system<\/a><\/li>\n<li>National Institutes of Health: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pubmed\/16874533\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Topical cannabinoid agonists. An effective new possibility for treating chronic pruritus<\/a><\/li>\n<li>National Institutes of Health: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pubmed\/28416341\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">The role of cannabinoids in dermatology<\/a><\/li>\n<li>National Institutes of Health: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pubmed\/28601556\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Cannabidiol upregulates melanogenesis through CB1 dependent pathway by activating p38 MAPK and p42\/44 MAPK.<\/a><\/li>\n<li>National Institutes of Health: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pubmed\/16324422\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Efficacy and tolerance of the cream containing structured physiological lipids with endocannabinoids in the treatment of uremic pruritus: a preliminary study.\u00a0<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Project CBD: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.projectcbd.org\/science\/genetics\/cbd-ppars-and-gene-expression\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">CBD, PPARS, and Gene Expression<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Hemp and Cannabinoids for Beauty and Skin Disorders, Jeanette Jacknin, 2018 AAD Annual Meeting San Diego, California February 16-20, 2018<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Some of the hottest, most talked about ingredients in cosmetics today are cannabis derivatives. Their use has evolved into a major skin care trend with numerous products marketed as oils, balms, creams, lotions, and facial serums. Unfortunately, there is a &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/9229\/pcc-hot-cosmetic-ingredients-cannabis-derivatives\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":9230,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[124],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-9229","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"tag-trends","9":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Hot cosmetic trend: Formulating with CBD oils and cannabis derivatives<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Cannabis has evolved into a major skin care trend with personal care products such as lotions and facial serums. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...\",\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ulprospector.ul.com\\\/author\\\/george-deckner\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Hot cosmetic trend: Formulating with CBD oils and cannabis derivatives","description":"Cannabis has evolved into a major skin care trend with personal care products such as lotions and facial serums. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. 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