{"id":9591,"date":"2019-06-19T08:00:31","date_gmt":"2019-06-19T14:00:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/knowledge\/?p=9591"},"modified":"2019-07-05T08:14:16","modified_gmt":"2019-07-05T14:14:16","slug":"pcc-how-to-formulate-green-liquid-foundations","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/9591\/pcc-how-to-formulate-green-liquid-foundations\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Formulate Green Liquid Foundations"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>A liquid foundation is a product designed to enhance skin color and provide a natural looking appearance that helps cover or even out skin imperfections and discoloration. Liquid foundations are an important part of most women\u2019s daily routine with an estimated 106 million American women using foundations and concealers in 2018<sup>(1).<\/sup><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-9593\" src=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2019\/06\/bottle-of-foundation-iStock-138049530-600x400.jpg\" alt=\"image of a bottle of liquid foundation - learn more about formulating green foundations\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/bottle-of-foundation-iStock-138049530-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/bottle-of-foundation-iStock-138049530-600x400-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/>The important distinction in formulating green liquid foundations and conventional types is the choice of ingredients. \u201cGreen\u201d typically means no silicone, no petroleum sourced materials, no ethylene or propylene oxide based materials, and the use of biodegradable\/sustainably produced ingredients. All materials should be natural and produced from natural renewable feedstocks.<\/p>\n<p>There are two types of liquid foundation formulations that are currently popular&#8211; oil in water and water in oil&#8211;with the latter being the most common. Water in oil formulations are popular because when pigments are incorporated into the continuous oil phase, the emulsion skin feel is significantly less drying. Pigments also are easier to incorporate into the oil phase than water with less agglomeration and a more even coverage.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s a dramatic shift from the past when oil in water foundations dominated. This occurred mainly due to the development of superior silicone based polymeric emulsifiers and emollients, which made it much easier to stabilize water in oil emulsions.\u00a0 This trend continues to the present with silicone-based emulsions being the most common foundations sold globally. The current natural trend is expected to increase the demand for non-silicone based formulations in the future.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>The typical water in oil liquid foundation consists of:<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Water<\/li>\n<li>Humectants (1-10%). Humectants help increase the product application time. They can also help improve moisturization and the formulation freeze\/thaw stability.<\/li>\n<li>Emulsion stabilizers\/electrolytes (.5-3%). Emulsion stabilizers work by increasing the viscosity of the continuous phase. Electrolytes are also useful because they can help reduce the particle size of the dispersed phase and drive more emulsifier to the interface.<\/li>\n<li>Emulsifier (2-5%). Emulsifiers help reduce the interfacial tension between the oil and water phases, allowing the water to disperse into the oil. The best emulsifiers are high molecular weight polymeric ingredients, which are better at stabilizing the interface.<\/li>\n<li>Emollient\/waxes (10-20%). Emollients are needed to reduce the skin-drying effect of the pigments and allow for better spreading during application. Waxes can act as emulsion stabilizers by thickening the oil phase.<\/li>\n<li>Coverage pigment (5-20%) can be coated for easier dispersion .The coverage pigment is normally the anatase or rutile form of titanium dioxide but zinc oxide is also used.<\/li>\n<li>Color pigments\/Iron oxides (1-7%) can be coated for easier dispersion.<\/li>\n<li>Preservatives (.5-1.5%).<\/li>\n<li>Pigment dispersing agent (.5-1.5%) \u2013 They aren\u2019t needed if using coated pigments.<\/li>\n<li>Sunscreens (optional). Typically, combinations of micronized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are used in natural based formulations and dispersed in the oil phase.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Looking for ingredients for use in cosmetic formulations?<\/h3>\n<p>Prospector can help you find the products you need for your next formulation. Find technical data, request samples, and connect with global suppliers in just a few clicks.<\/p>\n<h3><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ulprospector.com\/en\/na\/PersonalCare\/?st=31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Search for ingredients on Prospector.<\/a><\/h3>\n<hr \/>\n<h3><strong>General guidelines: Formulating natural water in oil foundations<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Utilize the lowest level of emulsifier needed (blends of are generally preferred). Start with 5% and reduce if acceptable.<\/li>\n<li>Co-emulsifiers improve stability and reduce particle size. Adding a small amount of high HLB co-emulsifier can help reduce the level of homogenization needed.<\/li>\n<li>Add 0.5 &#8211; 1.0% electrolyte to water phase. Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate (1%) is typically used, but I prefer zinc sulfate since it can also reduce perseverative requirements.<\/li>\n<li>Keep internal water phase between 50-70% for better stability.<\/li>\n<li>Add waxes or thickeners to the continuous phase to improved stability, if needed.<\/li>\n<li>Normally, homogenize after emulsion is formed. Be careful about over-homogenizing. The particle size for stable emulsions is approximately one to four microns. More coarsely dispersed emulsions tend to separate.<\/li>\n<li>Typically, add water to the oil phase slowly.<\/li>\n<li>Avoid air entrapment because it can reduce stability.<\/li>\n<li>Test stability in the package you will be using. Some plastics can cause problems.<\/li>\n<li>Polyols can help freeze\/thaw stability.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><strong>Green recommendations<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Humectants: Use glycerin or naturally produced pentylene or butylene glycol.<\/li>\n<li>All natural emollients: Squalane or jojoba oil.<\/li>\n<li>Natural based emollients: Capric\/Caprylic triglyceride and isoamyl laurate.<\/li>\n<li>Emulsion stabilizers: Silica, silica silylate, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-90 sepiolite\/montmorillonite.<\/li>\n<li>Emulsifers: Tri (polyglyceryl-3\/lauryl) hydrogenated trilinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl 4 diisostearate\/ polyhydroxystearate\/sebacate.<\/li>\n<li>Pigments: Most pigments currently used are considered natural. I generally recommend using coated\/milled pigments for easier processing. Good natural based hydrophobic coatings include hydrogenated lecithin and sodium stearoyl glutamate.<\/li>\n<li>Dispersing agent: Polyhydroxystearic acid, polyglyceryl 6 polyricinoleate, or lecithin (when using non coated pigments).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><strong>References<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ol>\n<li>U.S. population: Do you use foundation \/ concealer make-up? (2018).<a href=\"https:\/\/www.statista.com\/statistics\/275729\/us-households-usage-of-foundation-and-concealer-make-up\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> https:\/\/www.statista.com\/statistics\/275729\/us-households-usage-of-foundation-and-concealer-make-up\/<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A liquid foundation is a product designed to enhance skin color and provide a natural looking appearance that helps cover or even out skin imperfections and discoloration. Liquid foundations are an important part of most women\u2019s daily routine with an &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/9591\/pcc-how-to-formulate-green-liquid-foundations\/\">Continued<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":9593,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"episode_type":"","audio_file":"","podmotor_file_id":"","podmotor_episode_id":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","filesize_raw":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","itunes_episode_number":"","itunes_title":"","itunes_season_number":"","itunes_episode_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"ppma_author":[1251],"class_list":{"0":"post-9591","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-personal-care-cosmetics-cleaners","8":"entry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Ingredients used in formulating green liquid foundations<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The distinction in formulating green liquid foundations versus conventional types is the choice of ingredients. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. 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His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people\u2019s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com. In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter &amp; Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development. While at Procter &amp; Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands. Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President\u2019s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands. George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics &amp; Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings. George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio. Learn more about Deckner Consulting Services...","sameAs":["https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com"],"url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/author\/george-deckner\/"}]}},"authors":[{"term_id":1251,"user_id":6,"is_guest":0,"slug":"george-deckner","display_name":"George Deckner","avatar_url":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/media\/2017\/10\/George-Deckner_avatar_1508792845-96x96.jpg","0":null,"1":"","2":"","3":"","4":"","5":"","6":"","7":"","8":""}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9591","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=9591"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9591\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/9593"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=9591"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=9591"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=9591"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulprospector.ul.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=9591"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}