The sustainability zone at In-Cosmetics Global was as vibrant as ever with a hall dedicated to sustainability and two theatres full of great sustainability related content. Walking around the innovation zone most of the ingredients featured had sustainability related claims, showing how sustainability is widely spread in the beauty industry, with very interesting launches such as plant-based pigments and naturally derived panthenol. The emphasis on sustainable practices has clearly become an industry standard rather than a niche focus, representing a significant shift in how cosmetic ingredients are developed and marketed.
In this article, I shall identify key trends I identified at the sustainability zone, highlighting the evolution toward more data-driven approaches, increased validation requirements, and the management of greater complexity in sustainable beauty solutions.
Regenerative beauty, the ultimate sustainable beauty trend
The concept of regeneration applied to beauty is the ultimate status of sustainability, as it aims not just to protect but to give back to nature by restoring it. This concept can be applied not only to farming itself but also skin, packaging, fair working conditions and even business models, like for example Thrive regenerative skincare operating as a public nonprofit organization. Another benefit of the regenerative farming approach is the potential for higher quality extracts as healthy soil and greater biodiversity can translate in higher micronutrients and secondary metabolite production in other words much higher quality extracts.
Dr. Paolo Goi from Davines gave a very inspiring presentation talking about regenerative agriculture at Davines in Italy. Inspired by the book “One Health, Challenges for the 21st Century,” by JC Prata, whose key message is human health is inseparable from environmental health, it started the first European Research Project and Education hub for the regenerative organic movement for cosmetic applications in collaboration with the Rodale Institute.
Nineteen crops have been certified according to the Regenerative Organic Alliance standard, leading to several plant extracts for skin and hair applications. Dr. Goi shared some exciting research results showing an increase of night pollinators in regenerative fields and a fourfold increase in German chamomile essential oil production in comparison to conventional systems. More research will be shared in the near future.
The regenerative approach represents a paradigm shift from merely reducing harm to actively improving ecosystems through beauty product development. Brands embracing this philosophy are positioning themselves not just as sustainable but as agents of positive environmental change, creating a new category within the green beauty movement that resonates deeply with environmentally conscious consumers.
Data as a tool for improvement and added value for brands
Suppliers such as Oleon and Lubrizol shared their progress in measuring carbon and water footprint, and even other parameters, explaining you cannot reduce what you do not measure. This means suppliers on the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) journey have started optimizing their processes, reducing their impact and improving their metrics which can be rather attractive for brands seeking quality ingredients with the added value of optimized metrics. Examples of these efforts are the use of renewable energy, green solvents, water recirculation and cold processes.
It was actually interesting to hear how Mass Balanced palm oil derivatives have lower metrics than their conventional counterparts. This data-driven approach allows companies to make quantifiable claims about their environmental impact and set measurable goals for improvement. By providing transparent metrics, suppliers are enabling brands to make more informed choices and substantiate their own sustainability claims to increasingly discerning consumers.
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Prove it
I have seen claims like protecting the forest and avoiding deforestation and even upcycled being challenged by the audience, asking for a certification or some kind of evidence, showing how the audience expects validation and is aware of potential greenwashing. This proves a higher level of expectation when it comes to sustainability claims, meaning suppliers need to be prepared to provide relevant and robust evidence.
In line with this approach, there are suppliers now carrying several certifications such as Cosmos and Natrue and even offering metrics for the Eco Beauty Score as well as the Green Impact Index. This shift toward evidence-backed sustainability represents the industry’s maturation in its sustainability journey, moving from aspirational statements to verifiable achievements that can withstand scrutiny.
The demand for third-party verification has intensified as regulatory frameworks evolve and consumer scepticism of unsubstantiated claims increases. Companies that invest in rigorous certification processes gain competitive advantage through enhanced credibility and reduced regulatory risk in markets with strengthening greenwashing legislation.
Upcycling going up
“Upcycled” was perhaps the most common sustainability claim at the show. At the theatre it was a major theme, and several suppliers talked about their upcycling initiatives: Kaffe Bueno, a pioneer of upcycled coffee, Lignopure using lignin waste from the paper industry, Amphistar supplying biosurfactants from upcycled food waste and Olvea using rejected macadamia nuts from the food industry to produce macadamia oil.
The proliferation of upcycled ingredients demonstrates both creativity and practicality in addressing waste streams, transforming what were once considered byproducts into valuable cosmetic components. This approach not only reduces waste but often results in unique ingredients with compelling origin stories that enhance brand narratives and create additional value from existing resource flows.
The upcycling trend has expanded beyond simple waste reduction to become a source of innovation, with companies deliberately designing extraction processes around byproducts to maximize resource efficiency and discover novel bioactive compounds that might otherwise remain unexplored.
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Tools to navigate complexity
Ingredients suppliers appreciate the selection process is becoming more complicated than ever for formulators. For this reason, they have started providing tools helping them navigate the initial selection process. Examples are the BASF D’Lite, where ingredients can be selected according to the renewable carbon content, biodegradability and ecolabels compliance, and Symrise Clear4Trust® providing carbon footprint, water consumption, biodegradability, natural origin content and traceability.
These decision-making tools represent an important evolution in sustainable formulation, acknowledging that sustainability is multifaceted and often involves complex trade-offs between different environmental priorities. By simplifying this complexity into usable interfaces, these tools make sustainable formulation practices more available and help accelerate their adoption throughout the industry.
Conclusions
The In-Cosmetics Global exhibition clearly demonstrated that sustainability in the beauty industry has evolved beyond simple green messaging to become a sophisticated, multidimensional discipline. The emergence of regenerative approaches, data-driven decision making, increased demand for verification, popularization of upcycling, and development of complexity-managing tools all point to an industry that is taking its environmental responsibilities seriously.
What stands out most is the transition from isolated sustainability initiatives to integrated approaches that consider the entire product lifecycle and multiple environmental impacts simultaneously. This holistic perspective is necessary to address the interconnected nature of environmental challenges and avoid simply shifting problems from one area to another.
Looking forward, we can expect further integration of digital technologies with sustainability practices, more rigorous standards for environmental claims, and continued innovation in regenerative approaches. The companies that will thrive in this evolving landscape will be those that embrace transparency, invest in measurable improvements, and recognize that sustainability is not just a marketing consideration but a fundamental business imperative.
As consumers become increasingly educated about environmental issues, the beauty industry’s sustainability journey will continue to accelerate, driving positive change not just within cosmetics but potentially influencing practices in adjacent industries as well. The path forward is challenging but promising, with the potential to transform beauty from an environmental liability into a force for ecological restoration.
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