Back in the 1990’s when I first started in the industry, the primary surfactants used for cleansing products like shampoos and body washes were Sodium or Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate. Fast forward thirty years later and these surfactants continue to be the most often used surfactants for these applications. This makes me wonder, why are they still so popular and where is the innovation in cosmetic surfactants?
Why they are used.
It’s relatively easy to see why these sulfates are still popular after all these years. SLS is highly effective at breaking down oils and removing dirt, making it an excellent cleansing agent. It is easy to formulate with and produces a rich, dense foam that consumers love, often associating it with better cleaning efficacy. It can be used in a number of different formulations, has an established record of safe use, has regulatory approval around the world, and it is relatively inexpensive. With all those positive characteristics, it is understandable that raw material companies have struggled to come up with innovative replacements.
Limitations to surfactant innovation
The chemistry of surfactants is well known. There is an oil loving portion and a water loving portion. So, to innovate chemists have limited alternatives of what they can swap out to make novel surfactants. For example, you can replace the 12-carbon lipophile of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate with a 14-carbon one and get Sodium Myristyl Sulfate. Or you can use a 10-carbon lipophile to get Sodium Decyl Sulfate. Unfortunately, in terms of cost and performance, neither of these ingredients work as well as SLS.
More complex molecules can be substituted for the simple hydrocarbon chain, but these tend to make the final molecule more expensive and harder to work with even if it improves characteristics like mildness and environmental impact. From a performance standpoint, at least as far as personal care products go, SLS is likely the best that can be done.
But cost and performance isn’t everything.
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Innovation in Cosmetic Surfactants
Despite the longtime popularity of SLS, industry suppliers have recognized the need for innovation in surfactant technology. People have raised legitimate concerns about the irritation potential and negative environmental impact of SLS. Plus, consumer sentiment has slightly soured due to dubious chemical fear mongering about the ingredient and there is a growing consumer demand for gentler, more sustainable, and environmentally friendly products. Companies are exploring new surfactant molecules and blending traditional surfactants with novel ingredients to address these concerns without compromising performance.
Environmental innovations
In response to the increasing demand for gentler and more environmentally friendly products, the industry has introduced a variety of alternatives to traditional surfactants. In an attempt to get away from petroleum derived and palm based ingredients, other natural and biodegradable surfactants have gained significant traction, with ingredients such as Coco Glucoside and Decyl Glucoside leading the way. These surfactants, derived from coconut oil and glucose, are known for their mildness and excellent biodegradability, making them suitable for sensitive skin and eco-conscious consumers.
Amino acid-based surfactants, like Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate and Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, are also becoming popular due to their gentle cleansing properties and compatibility with the skin’s natural pH. These alternatives not only offer effective cleansing, but also minimize the risk of irritation and environmental impact, aligning well with the industry’s shift towards sustainability and consumer safety.
Multifunctional surfactants
Another area of innovation in surfactants has come in the area of creating molecules with multiple functions. While SLS is great at cleansing and foam generation, other surfactants like Cocamidopropyl Betaine can make the system more mild while also providing denser foam and some light conditioning effect and helping with system viscosity. Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate has the added benefit of helping with skin moisture retention. These multifunctional ingredients can streamline formulations by reducing the need for multiple separate additives, thereby simplifying the production process and enhancing product performance.
Fermentation technology
Fermentation technology is a relatively new approach to innovating in the area of surfactants. Using microorganisms like yeast and bacteria, fermentation processes can convert renewable feedstocks, such as sugars and agricultural by-products, into novel surfactant molecules. This method not only reduces reliance on petrochemicals, but also offers a greener alternative with a lower environmental footprint. Notable examples are the production of sophorolipids and rhamnolipids, biosurfactants known for their biodegradability and mildness. These biosurfactants exhibit good performance in terms of foaming, emulsifying, and cleansing properties, making them ideal for use in eco-friendly personal care products.
By using the power of biotechnology, the industry can produce surfactants that are not only effective, but also align with the principles of green chemistry and sustainability, paving the way for a new era of environmentally conscious cosmetic formulations. There are questions however, about the in-practice sustainability of these materials since their production often requires the use of land that would normally be used for agriculture. It also is unknown whether these new surfactants can provide consumer noticeable benefits.
Future of surfactant innovation
The enduring popularity of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) in the cosmetic industry underscores its effectiveness, affordability, and ease of formulation. However, the industry is not stagnant. As concerns about irritation and environmental impact grow, and as consumer preferences shift towards gentler and more sustainable products, significant strides have been made in surfactant innovation.
Emerging alternatives like Coco Glucoside and Decyl Glucoside, derived from natural and biodegradable sources, offer mild and eco-friendly options. Amino acid-based surfactants such as Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate and Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate align well with the industry’s move towards sustainability and consumer safety. Multifunctional surfactants, which combine cleansing with additional benefits like conditioning and moisture retention, simplify formulations and enhance product performance.
Fermentation technology represents a promising frontier, allowing the production of biosurfactants like sophorolipids and rhamnolipids from renewable feedstocks. These biosurfactants not only reduce reliance on petrochemicals, but may also offer a lower environmental footprint. While there are questions about the practical sustainability of these methods and their consumer-perceived benefits, the potential for greener and more effective surfactants is undeniable.
In summary, while SLS remains a mainstay due to its unmatched balance of cost and performance, the future of cosmetic surfactants is bright with innovation. The industry’s commitment to greener, safer, and more sustainable products ensures that new surfactant technologies will continue to emerge, meeting the evolving demands of both consumers and the environment. Whether using them makes economic sense remains to be seen.
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